What's wrong with me - this our second beach day in a row!  Today we decide to go to Plaka - lets see if it's the same as I remember it from 20 odd years ago!

The bus takes us past the airport which is surrounded by salt flats.  Not sure I fancy landing on that runway!

We get off at Plaka but decide to walk further along the coast, passing the high sand dunes that screen off the nudist beach.

After a nice day doing nothing we catch the bus back to the port and have a wander around the streets in the chora.

It was 9.30am before we awoke and we were feeling quite exhausted.  We decide to have a lazy day on the beach to finally lay all of the stresses of the previous days travel to rest.

We had picked up the bus timetable the previous evening and it shows that there is a very good service on the island.

The buses run every 30 minutes from the port around to Plaka but today we decide to take the bus to the nearer beach of Agios Prokopios.

We got off as soon as we saw the sign for Prokopios but this was one stop too early.  No problems - it gave us the opportunity to look at some of the hotels in the area.  My sister was planning to come to Naxos so I was on the look out for something a bit upmarket for her.  It's a short walk from the bus stop to the beach.  I can feel the stress and tiredness peel away from me by the second!

Getting carried away with our exploring we find ourselves walking a bit further around the bay in Agios Anna and decide to settle on a nice quiet part of the beach by cafe bar By Ammo.  The sunloungers are free to customers too.  They sell some amazing loukoumades - it would be so rude not to! I did feel a bit sick afterwards but it was worth it.

http://naxosguideapp.com/package/by-ammo-4/

This small stretch of beach is very attractive with powder white sand, shallow waters and areas where you can find a bit of seclusion.  It has a great selection of bars on offer mostly all with wifi.

We are so lucky to have 18 days for this trip.  Last year we had 16 days for our trip to Kea, Kythnos, Serifos and Sifnos and those extra couple of days really made all the difference to a regular two week holiday.  I had taken so long deliberating over which islands to visit this time but eventually decided to focus on the Little Cyclades.  After spreading out a large wall map on the carpet and my laptop with Greek Travel Pages open close by, I had worked out that it would be more efficient to fly to Santorini rather than Athens.  Not a choice I made lightly as I do love a few days in Athens at the end of an island hopping trip and I'm not a massive fan of Santorini.  Now let me clarify that last statement - it's not that I don't like Santorini - it's the fact that millions of other people love Santorini and it's way too busy for me!  

Naxos is the best island as a starting point for the Little Cyclades and it has been over 20 years since I had been there so I am really looking forward to visiting again.  The plan is from Naxos to visit Iraklia, Schinoussa and Koufonissi and if we are able to - a few days on one of my other favourite islands Amorgos!

There is an Easyjet flight from Manchester that is scheduled to arrive on Santorini at 13.50 and the last ferry of the day to Naxos leaves at 15.30.  If the flight is on time we should be able to make this easily.  Just to prevent a little bit of the faff, we pre booked and pre paid 40 euros for a taxi to pick us up and take us straight to the port.  I phoned their office to stress the importance of the taxi being on time as we had a ferry to catch at 15.30.  No problem!  Haha!

Thankfully the flight was on time and gave me a bit of confidence that we would easily catch the ferry.  As we start heading over the coast of mainland Greece I began to get my bearings and recognise that we are flying just west of Halkidiki - I can see the three fingers very clearly and the peak of Mount Athos jutting out in the distance.  Not a very clear photo however.

Does anyone else play Spot the Island from their window seat?  I'm such an anorak!

Siros

Paros with Antiparos in the foreground

Ios

As we came into land on Santorini, my window seat offered spectacular views over the caldera and volcano!

Passport control was a breeze.  All we have to do is get into the waiting taxi and head off to the port, buy our ferry tickets and Bob's your uncle!

As we exited the airport we were pleased to see a taxi driver holding up a card  with our name.  He told us to wait whilst he tracked down another couple but so far it's looking promising.  The other couple arrived and the taxi driver (who had had his phone glued to his ear since we saw him) was frantically making call after call - I'm assuming to find out where the other taxi was.  After 15 minutes of this, us and the other couple were getting a bit irritated - the only words we could get out of the taxi driver was "wait".  

After another 5 minutes of this he told us to wait and another taxi would be arrive shortly to take us to the port.  The other couple were  staying on Santorini - but we had a ferry to catch but in his wisdom he decides to take them as a priority - not very happy! 

After another 20 minutes we realise that the taxi isn't going to arrive so we had to make a judgement call and decided to take one of the taxi's from the stand.  We were now under great time pressure to get to the port.   The taxi driver understands our plight and takes those bad boy bends down to the port like he's on a life saving mission!

As we get out of the taxi the Blue Star Delos was already arriving into port.  The queue for the ticket office was really long with least another 20 people queuing to purchase tickets.  The temperature is quite high at this point - and so are my stress levels!

After 25 minutes in the queue Peter comes back with the tickets and we make our way towards the "cattle shed"  to join the queue - I say queue - it's more of a disorganised crowd moving vaguely in the same direction.  Getting off the ferry are hoards of people - thank God we're going in the opposite direction!

The sheer relief when I eventually make it under the shade of the cattle shed!  Back out into the searing heat again as we head towards the BS Delos but before long we are dumping our luggage on the car deck and making our way up to the top deck.  Now I can relax!

With a cup of tea in hand I can now admire the amazing views of Santorini from a distance - just how I like it!

I enjoyed the 2 hour journey but can't wait to unpack and get that first glass of wine in my hand.

We had booked 4 nights at Panorama in the town just below the Kastro.  I'd booked directly with them saving a few euros off the Booking.com price.  A couple of friendly email exchanges with Irene confirmed that Marcos would be waiting for us at the port when we arrived.

As we arrived at Naxos port we could see Panorama from the deck.

Down to the car deck we head - this is one of the most exciting parts of ferry travel - the anticipation of what this island and this trip has to bring.   We disembark and look around for a sign saying Panorama. We couldn't see Marcos so after a while we decided to head straight up to Panorma - we kind of know roughly where it is but there is a chance we will get lost in the winding streets.

And we do!  We keep trying to reposition ourselves so that we are heading towards the Kastro.  It's hot, it's all up hill and my suitcase weighs a ton!  After a few wrong turns we eventually find ourselves at the steps of Panorama.  Coming up another set of steps is an out of breath Marcos who had been searching the whole of the port area  for us!

After a nice welcome drink we are shown our room.  Marcos is very informative and helpful.  There is a little shared balcony outside our room and a huge roof terrace with amazing views over the port. 

Irene had promised me a room with a good view and look what we got!  Amazing!

We're shower and change and now it's time to relax.  We head up to the roof terrace to watch the sun set.  We can see groups of people already gathering by the portara but we get a much better view here!

We have our last fabulous breakfast at the Albatros.  I would definitely recommend this small family run hotel. It has the friendliness of a family hotel but with very high standards and excellent customer service.

We have a final stroll around the marina before returning for our taxi

This has been a wonderful holiday.  Even the torrential rain and thunderstorms on the first few days were enjoyable.  One week has been very short and it is definitely an area that I would like to explore further, but look who we're going home to see!

NB - This photo blog was written 9 months after the trip with only notes for the first 2 days of the trip.  I've done the best possible with the few grey cells I have left!

This really is turning out to be a beach holiday - well on the days we had sunshine anyway.  We aren't sit on the beach all day people but with the lack of excursions (I had really wanted to go to Albania and also a trip to Corfu or one of the Sivotan islands) we are making the best of things and also taking the opportunity to relax.

At the marina there is a set of steps that leads up to a path that takes you around the bay in the opposite direction to the beaches we had already visited. The first beach we come to is Gallikos Molos Beach, a narrow stretch of sand and stone with the most crystal of waters. It's too cold to swim but it is heaven to walk along the deserted beach.  The view from here to the Sivotan islands is beautiful.

The next beach we reach is Zeri Beach where we are surprised to see water park complete with multi coloured water slides.  It seems so out of place here.

The path takes us back up onto the road again and we access the beach from behind the water park.  The beach doesn't disappoint and we're quite happy to spend the rest of the day here.

That evening we decide to have our final meal down at the marina.  Vangelis is out on the prowl for tourists but we are keen to another taverna on the front.  We choose O Faros which is next to Vangelis's restaurant and he provides us with some good entertainment as he tried to entice tourists in.  There is clearly stiff competition amongst the restaurants in the marina.

We can see a man sitting on the harbour wall selling small bags of oregano - we buy a couple of bags to take home.  Our meal is a great feast.  We start with tzatziki and dolmades, Peter has the seafood platter and I have lamb stifado - one of my favourites.

This is a nice last meal of the holiday!

One last stroll around the marina before returning back to the hotel

We take advantage of the nice weather spend the morning on Zavia Beach, saving our appetite for the evening.

Late afternoon we change and get ready to head up to Perdika Village on the bus.  This is the last bus of the day so we also take the details of Giogios the taxi driver so that we can book our return journey to Sivota.

The House of Sweets really does have the best vantage point from where to watch the sunset so we order some wine ready to watch the sun set behind the island.  Whilst we are there I receive a phone call from my eldest son Tony to tell us that his partner Kerry has given birth to a baby girl!  I had been on tenterhooks every day since we left home but this is amazing news. As the sun goes down on another day in Greece a new life begins at home!

After a stroll around the village we decide to eat in restaurant Ta Kavouria right in the middle of the square.  We chose well.  Clearly the central point for the local community, from here we see all walks of local life coming and going.

The meal is simple but delicious - I have the local sausage and Peter has rabbit.  We toast the birth of our new baby granddaughter again!

Another bright day!  We decide to discover more of the coastline with an early morning walk.

We had only viewed Zavia beach from the main road above the other day so decide to walk down to the beach itself - it's only 700 metres from Sivota village. The walk down a steep path brings us to an olive grove and through the clearing is access to the beach.  The cyclamen growing amongst the wild grass are in splendid form this morning. A concrete terrace has a number of parasolled tables and chairs and stone steps lead down to the beach itself.  The beach is set in a deep narrow bay and the beach is sand/stone - very beautiful set against the backdrop of the greenery.

Although it's warm it isn't warm enough to swim in the sea.  We sit on the beach for half and hour then set off to Mega Ammos the next beach along the road.

Again the views of the coastline below are stunning.  

Mega Ammos is a beautiful beach - just 1.5 kilometres from Sivota Village.  The path to the beach is pretty steep - more noticeable on the way up!

We stay for a short while and then walk to Mikro Ammos beach.  We watch galleon style boat come into the bay.  Excursions are running from somewhere - probably from Corfu as there is absolutely nothing running from Sivota.

Despite the short distance between the beaches the walk up and down from the main road is strenuous work and it's quite warm today. Luckily we have times it just right to catch the bus back to Sivota village.

When passing through the village we had seen signs for The House of Sweets - Katie's Cakes up in Perdika and if there are cakes on offer I'll be there.  We check the bus time table and see there is a bus that goes there throughout the day and into the early evening so we catch the next one that leaves from the village.  

The House of Sweets is great with an extensive range of homemade cakes.  We stay for cake and tea.  The views of the bay below are stunning.  The village is quite charming and we imagine that is a really great place to watch the sunset from so we decide to come back the following evening for a meal but we will catch a taxi back.

The buses don't run very regularly so we ensure we catch the next bus back to Sivota.

That's a nice bit of exploration for the day!

Giorgios the taxi driver that Maria arranged to take us to Meteora picks us up at 10.00am from our hotel.  He's a very friendly chap and is happy to take us the 400km round trip.  He has visited many times before but hasn't been for a while so he will enjoy the trip also.

After all the faffing around trying to find organised tours to Meteora it is such a relief to now be going - I just don't care about the expense.  Today the sun is shining so we don't ask for anything more!

The drive further into mainland Greece is fantastic.  Although my passion has always been the Greek Islands I can feel a yearning to explore mainland Greece about to erupt within!  The landscape is so rich and verdant - the rain is clearly a contributing factor to its beauty.

After a couple of hours driving the landscape begins to change.  In the distance I can see what I think is Meteora.  Like a child on a school trip I point and ask  Giorgios if the rocky outcrop in the distance is Meteora - he tells me that it is.  Words can't describe the feeling and the realisation that this trip that had been at the top of my bucket list was minutes away.  We approach the village of Kalambaka before making our ascent.  Can you imagine what it must be like to live in shadow of Meteora?  

You can already see how photogenic Meteora is.  As we begin the gradual climb upwards, an amazing view is offered to us around every bend.  Giorgios stops on the side of the road for our first photo opportunity - teasing us with a view of our first monastery!

The first monastery we visit is the Holy Monastery of Grand Meteoron.  Just a 'few' steps to climb before we reach the entrance.  I had been a bit apprehensive before coming to Meteora, thinking that my vertigo would throw one of its spanners in the wheel but so far it isn't too bad.  Although I had come prepared, dressed modestly in long sleeves and covered legs I had to wear one of the wrap around skirts available - trousers on ladies not allowed.

The Grand Monastery serves as the main museum for tourists visiting Meteora.  Points of interest are the wine cellar where we see a representation of shelves fully stocked with wine barrels, a kitchen with an array of antique utensils featuring a bread oven and in the refectory you can imagine the monks gathering to eat their (what I imagine is meagre) meals.  In the sacristy is a grizzly collection of the skulls of former monks that habited the monastery.

The amazing views from the terrace are spectacular however, as I move towards the outer fence for a photograph I have to clutch onto anything within arms reach to stop the vertigo eebiejeebies!

From the perimeter fence I can see the next monastery we are going to visit - the Monastery of Varlaam.  It looks like access is by way of a narrow bridge suspended between two rocks.  We also see a little cable car running from the monastery.  My knees are now knocking quite loudly at the very thought!  I may just sit this one out.

Anyway, all of that vertigo stuff aside - I pay a visit to the ladies facilities.  You need strong leg muscles to squat over this thing without splashing your clothes!  Tres difficile for ladies!

Before we leave we buy a couple of jars of Meteora honey which is a lovely dark brown - I can't wait to taste it!  We meet Giorgios back at the car and we hop back in for the short drive to the Monastery of Varlaam.  I tell Giorgios that I am concerned about walking across the bridge and he reassures me that it is fine.  And do you know what - it was - it looks far worse from above and was not a problem crossing at all.

We cross the stone bridge and begin climbing the 195 steps into the monastery taking in the view of neighbouring monasteries and the landscape was we go.

We are presented with an attractive courtyard with wonderful vistas.

The church hosts some wonderful frescoes.

Not to mention more amazing views!  The little cable car shuttles back and forth to the monastery.

Here is a link to further information on the Varlaam Monastery.

http://www.sacred-destinations.com/greece/meteora-varlaam-monastery

Giorgios has also been into the monastery and I'm glad he's enjoying this trip with us.  Giorgios take us to another point down the road from where there are the most magnificent views we have seen yet.  Unfortunately my jelly legs won't allow me walk out onto the rock that overhangs the cliff edge.

What an amazing trip this has been.  After all the trials and tribulations of trying to get here we finally made it.  I hope to come back another time and visit more of the monasteries and maybe stay in Kalambaka.

The views back through the Thessalian landscape hypnotise us especially after such an exhausting day.

Well after a shower and a change we're ready to head out down to the Marina again.  The weather has certainly improved and we take the opportunity to watch the sunset over the Sivotan islands.

This evening we eat at restaurant Parasole that does fabulous pizza's which we can see being made through the open window of the restaurant

Great end to a fabulous day!

We awake to another grey and overcast day. No rain as of yet - but we know that its coming!

We head down for breakfast which again is a great feast.  The Danes have their maps spread out across the tables planning their drive to Meteora - obviously much braver than I!   

Today we decide to do a bit more exploring of the area and take a left out of the hotel and head towards Zavia beach.  We don't take the path down to the beach but  carry on on the road above it.  

Wild cyclamen are growing everywhere and we pass villas with gardens that have trees that are abundant with fruit including pomegranates.

We don't pass anyone else on the road except groups of cats languishing close to a rubbish bin and also a gang of dogs trotting down the middle of the road as if a daily routine.  I imagine them like a group of old men gathering together to stroll to the local kafenio where they will catch up on all the latest gossip!

The weather certainly isn't beach weather so that isn't an option.  We walk to Isabella travel agency again to see if there is any update on the Meteora trip.  No excursions are running - we'd also fancied the day trip to Albania but that is out too.  All she can offer us for the week we are there is a night out in Parga - not really what I'm looking for!

We take another walk around the Marina which isn't very big.  A gentleman standing in the doorway of one of the quayside taverna's catches our eye.  He is wearing a captains hat and tells us that his name is Vangelis and his restaurant cooks the best kleftiko in town.  Well lets see if it lives up to his claim - we will come back later.  For now we decide to catch the bus to Igoumenitsa.  It's a bit of a long shot but as it's a port I expect it to be busier than Sivota and possibly there are travel agencies there with trips to Meteora.  Besides it's now pouring down with rain again so at least by bus we get to see some of the local area and keep dry!

There are lovely views of the coastline from the bus.  Igoumonitsa itself has nothing really to offer - particularly in the rain.  After a scout around we don't find any travel agencies so haul off our festival ponchos and go to a local cafe for hot chocolate whilst we wait for the return bus.  Enough is enough.  We are going to have to bite the bullet and visit Meteora by taxi!

 At the bus station buses are waiting to begin their journeys to Thesalonika, Ionnina and Athens - what a thought to be able to jump on a bus and travel further across Greece - another ambition yet to be realised!  The bus we catch is fully of school kids returning to their villages.  The rain has not yet relented.  

We decide to take Vangelis at his word and go to sample the best Kleftiko in Sivota at restaurant Trehantiri.  The food is great and the service fabulous and the klefiko was one of the best. Vangelis spends most of his time trying to attract the tourists in - one of the things that I don't like about the more touristy islands of Greece but I have no complaints.  The marina is quite lively in the evenings (for out of season standards) and a lovely place to eat.

When we return to the hotel we ask Maria to book the taxi for us.  To hell with the expense - tomorrow we are off to Meteora!!

We were out for the count after an exhausting day of travelling.  We knew that the forecast was for rain for the first few days here - we had been checking the week before we left England.  It was raining - not spitting but heavily raining!

We needed to go back to the travel agency but we'd heard good things about the breakfast at the Albatros so we shower and get dressed and go down for breakfast.

For a small hotel the selection is good - yoghurt and fruit, hotdog sausages, bacon and scrambled egg, a selection of cold meats and cheese, an array of bakery products, juices and tea/coffee.

Everyone seems to be languishing over breakfast. The rain beats down into the pool sending three wooden ducks bouncing around in circles. No rush - the rain is enough to keep most of the guests confined to the hotel.

We decide to go out and face it - this is no way to spend your first day on holiday. We had brought some festival ponchos left behind in Peters hotel after Creamfields - I knew they'd come in handy! I changed into shorts as they'd be easier to dry than trousers and off we went taking a slightly different route down to the centre if Sivota. We came out close to Isabela travel agency so made this our first port of call. The lady recognises us and says that she will phone another agent to see if they have any bookings for Meteora. We wait in a anticipation.

Unfortunately nobody has booked this trip - even from Parga. Anyway she says that she will phone our hotel if any they take any bookings - she does suggest that we hire a car but I tell her that I wouldn't drive in Greece if my life depended upon in it!

Back out into the rain - we head down to the marina. It feels as though the weather is trying to brighten up a little - but then we realise that we've just tempted fate! Just as we bring the cameras out from under our ponchos the sky begins to turn an ominous yellow - the yellow that thunder clouds are made of!

We had been watching the waves crashing against the south side of Agios Nicolaos  - one if the three small Sivotan islands just off the coastline.  Above the islands we could see clouds rolling towards us.

The wind began to pick up and lightening streaked across the sky. Before we knew it the rain began to pelt down and there was nowhere close by to shelter.

The yachts in the marina began to bob violently and bells clang. This is about to become we a full on storm - very exciting! Eventually we are able to take shelter under the wooden canopy of a nearby restaurant.

I remember reading about a tornado that had hit the area a few months earlier - this us an area used to unpredictable weather patterns.

To see a storm like this come in so quickly was exhilarating. Not what you expect for a Greek holiday but exhilarating non the less! And what else can you do under these circumstance? Make the most of it!

The thunder just seemed to bounce between the mountains echoing loudly over Sivota village.

We've been looking forward to this trip for some time.  I'd set my sights in Sivota after seeing an aerial photograph of Sivota and its surrounding islands a few years ago.  It takes a lot to drag me away from the islands but this is a trip I've really been looking forward to.

I had hoped to be away for my birthday in the 3rd week if September but it didn't work out as planned - not to worry - we know we are fortunate to have a second holiday in Greece this year.

One advantage of going a little later is that we walked into Manchester airport and straight to the check in desk and are through security in 10 minutes - excellent!

The flight is great - Just over 3 hours and non eventful - just as I like it! Great views if Venice - I love it when the captain gives you updates throughout the journey.  Thomson airlines have gone all no frills so no more Aldo Zilli inflight meals or in flight entertainment - except the screen that gives you flight updates!

As we approach Preveza airport we fly over Lefkada and can clearly identify the long causeway joining this 'island' to the mainland.

We were out if the airport in no time. We had booked (very expensive) airport transfers with Suntransfers. A private taxi was waiting for us just outside the doors.

The driver exchanged a single word - 'give' as he took my suitcase. The journey started OK. At 7.30pm night was already beginning to descend. The road out of Preveza is a good single lane tarmac road and an open license for fast driving - and fast driving it was! Luckily I couldn't see the speedometer but Peter could and later told me in the safety of the hotel that at times he was driving at 156 kilometres per hour. Which according to Google is 96.93 miles per hour!  We have a 90 kilometre journey to our hotel - our hotel us closer to Albania than it us to the airport and this driver doesn't want to hang around!

Now on a three lane motorway 96.93 miles an hour is pushing it but we're talking hairpin bends and unexpected creatures laying in the middle of the road. 

After passing through Parga and as the taxi began to ascend the road towards Sivota, the drivers full beam picks up a body in the middle of the road - later to be identified as a fox.  'Fox' he shouts as it springs up and runs into the hedgerow and then he givesd out a large belly laugh.  Peter and I laugh too though I think out of sheer relief and mild hysteria.

Within minutes of this, the cars' full beam hits a larger animal wandering along the side of the road.  The young bull looks startled as the driver hits the brakes.  Again he finds this hilarious and says 'Fox - little problem.  This - big problem!'  We also find it hilarious and hysteria sets in again!

As we begin to descend the mountain we see a cluster of lights over to our right.  'Corfu' our driver chirps up.  It looks so close.

Soon after we are off the main road and driving through a village that must be Sivota.  We arrive at the Albatros Hotel and with a handshake and a thank you our driver is gone.

The hotel is lovely - small and friendly and spotlessly clean as we'd expected via Tripadvisor.  It looks very new - the room has a large balcony with side pool view and a lovely modern bathroom - a nice treat in Greece.

We quickly unpack and head down to the bar for a cup of tea, a club sandwich and a mojito. 

Next we go out to explore. It's 9.30pm, the streets are empty and all we can hear is the chorus cicada's in the distance.

We have no idea where we are but decide to take a right towards the village - at least there were signs of life an hour ago.  Sivota is small  and a few sumermarkets, tavernas and bars line the main road.  This then leads to a small marina packed full of yachts and fishing boats.

After a short meander we deccide to call in at Isabela travel agency to check out the availability of tours.  As we are only here for a week we want to make sure we book onto the Meteora trip and also the trip to Albania.

Our hopes were soon to be dashed.  It is the end of the season, the weather is about to  turn bad and nobody has booked places on the trip to Meteora so far - nor to Albania.  Disappointment begins to engulf me from the feet up but my brain is still thinking through some alternatives.  The lady in Isabela is as helpful as se can be but she asks us to come back in the morning and she will check if there have been any new bookings.

Off we traipse, calling in at the supermarket for water and a small kettle for the room (and teabags).

Tomorrow we will see whar options we have!

The room here at the Arion is quite nice - modern and clean.  We are up on the roof level - or as I like to call it the Penthouse!

I can imagine in full season it is quite noisy when guests are out on the roof terrace in the evening.  Great views though!

We catch the metro from Monistiraki to the airport - a really pleasant journey.  

This has been an amazing trip. The sea has been freezing and the wind a bit of a nightmare but that is a very small price to pay for the amazing display of spring flowers which have absolutely blown me away.

Until next year...............................

We woke up early to finish packing.  Pension Morfeus has been a fabulous place to stay both location wise, hospitality wise and definitely has the best ever bathroom for a pension.  We give Pension Morfeus 5 Stars!

Maria comes to say goodbye to us and she gives us a gift.  It is wrapped in tissue paper.  When we open it later we discover a prettily decorated piece of Sifnian pottery - we are absolutely delighted with it and touched at the thought!

We have a bit of time before we need to go to the ferry so we do a bit of last minute shopping in the pottery shops and then go for breakfast on the beach. 

Today is our last full day on Sifnos.  There is still so much more to see but decide to catch the bus to Apollonia - all destinations depart from Apollonia. We plan to take the bus onwards to Hironissos - just a round trip as the bus only runs twice a day.  The same group is at the bus stop again where us, the Dutch, the Americans and the Greeks discuss which islands we have been to and where our onward trip is headed to.  The elderly Greek man with much gesticulation asks us which is best Milos or Sifnos.  We had visited Milos the previous and although a lovely island, I felt that Sifnos has more character.  The Americans agreed with us emphatically.  He looked a bit disappointed and then I wish I'd bitten my tongue thinking that this may be his home island.

All photographs of the bus trip to Hironissos is taken from the moving a moving vehicle.  The landscape is spectacular - green, unspoilt, deserted - words don't do it justice - not mine anyway!

We get off the bus at Artemonos where we are early enough to still want breakfast.  We have tea and toast in the pretty square with the fabulous bakery.

We take a slow walk back to Apollonia via Pano Petali where we stop to take more photographs along the way.

When we arrive at Apollonia we head to the jewellery shops just off the main square.  I see some silver charms that I like and buy a couple for my bracelet.  The young lady attaches the charms to my bracelet for me and whilst we're waiting we chat to her and her brother.  We tell them about Peter's experience with the snake at the Kastro.  She tells us that he was very lucky because the snakes are very dangerous and only two days earlier a tourist had been bitten and had be taken to hospital in Athens by helicopter.  She also tells us that their father had been bitten by a snake a few years ago and he was very ill in hospital for nearly two weeks.  The brother tells us that when he was a baby, one day his mum came into their house to find a scorpion on him.  I'm a bit creeped out by this now and Peter despite his encounter appears blase and says that this is very common in Egypt too. Peter tells them about the snake stones they use in his fathers village for snake and scorpion bites.  I am told that the stones are from a snakes head but internet research provides several other alternative theories.  I have made clear to Peter that if I ever get bitten by a snake or scorpion in Egypt not to go running off in search for the old snake stones - just get me a helicopter to the nearest hospital!

We tell them about the snake - I'm not going to let this one drop am I!  Maria tells us that there are 4 types of snake on the island and the grey one is very dangerous - the yellow one less so.  She tells Peter he is very lucky to not get bitten!

Tonight we are having our final meal on the island at Absinthe in Kamares.  It has excellent reviews and is well located overlooking the bay.  We are the first customers of the evening so get a window seat however, where the restaurant would usually be open to the skies, the plastic sheets are down to prevent the wind from pelting sand into the restaurant.  The wind is even stronger now.

The menu is very extensive and "inspired from the famed Greek Smyrneian cuisine of Asia Minor with a dash of Central Asian spice and texture."

http://absinthe-sifnos.gr/en/absinthe.html

To start we have Lahmatzun which we are told has Lebanese origins.  It is spicy minced meat topped with warm yogurt on pitta.  I then have clay baked lamb with apples and mixed white and wild rice with raisins and Peter has the shark.  The meal is finished with ice cream with confiture and complimentary spoon fruit.

We head out for the 10.00am bus to Apollonia again.  For the last couple of days there has been the same crowd of people waiting at the stop - two Dutch couples who are on a walking holiday, a middle aged American couple who tell us the snow is still thick on the ground back home and an elderly Greek couple who don't speak English but always greet everyone when they arrive at the stop.

My first mission is to find a shop in Apollonia that can save the photographs on my memory card to a CD as I've already used 8gb's of memory on my SLR.  Maria from Morfeus tell us that we are more likely to find somewhere in Apollonia than Kamares.  Kostas tells us that there is a shop near to the second petrol station - not the first petrol station but the second one!

Using our powers of deduction we work out which is the second petrol station and we come across a photography studio which seems to have a machine where you can download and print your photos.  Unfortunately it doesn't take flash cards.  The lady tells us in broken English to wait whilst she phones her son who is at home. Within 5 minutes her son arrive on a moped.  His English is good and he tells us that he will take it home and download it for us and it will only cost 4 euros.  It cost us 8 euros in Athens last year and I'm sure his petrol would cost that too.  Whilst we wait we go to the bakery next door for breakfast.  This is a busy old bakery and clearly popular with the locals.

I have my memory card and cd of photographs back in 20 minutes which is excellent! (I will buy more memory cards for our next trip!)

We have a little while before the bus to Kastro arrives so we take the opportunity to walk around Apollonia again and in particular some of the churches that we didn't have time to explore previously.

There are lots of trendy cafe bars and little boutiques amongst the more traditional buildings.  

We catch the bus which drops us at the entrance to the Kastro which sits up on top of the cliff overlooking the famous Seven Martyrs church.  

We enter the Kastro by climbing whitewashed steps.  We pass Cafe bars that can only be described as 'boutique'.

The view from the Kastro inland is as stunning as the views out to the sea

We catch the 10.00am bus to Artemonas via Apollonia where the main bus station is located.  When I say bus station I mean a car park where the buses seem to depart from.  From here we will catch a bus to Panagia Chrisopigi but first we go to the bakery at Artemonis for breakfast.  Pastries and a cup of tea.  Whilst waiting for the bus I go to look at the church Agios Constantinos which was built in the 18th century.  It's architecture is simple but I'm fascinate by the way the small features cast shadows on the stark white exterior walls.

We find the path and begin the walk down to the church.  I'm already thinking about the climb back up in the midday heat!

"The celebrated monastery of the island patron saint "Panagia Hrissopigi" (Our Lady of the Golden Spring) stands at the south-eastern end of the island in the Faros area. It was built in 1650 in a lovely area on the site of an older church. The icon of Zoodohos Pigi is mentioned in a great many legends which allege that it came from the sea.  According to an inscription, the great Greek poet Aristomenis Provelegios stayed in one of them."

http://www.johnsanidopoulos.com/2011/06/synaxis-of-panagia-chrisopigi-of-sifnos.html

The baptism font sits on the edge of the islet - I can only image what it is like to be here for religious ceremonies and festivals especially the Ascension of Christ where visitors arrive at the church in hundreds of little boats.

The only other people here are a couple of workmen who are carrying out renovations.

No more putting it off.  We climb the steep steps back up to the main road and head off to Platis Gialos the next village along the coast.

The first thing that we see once back on the main road is a freshly squashed snake.  It is spring and the snakes like nothing better than to warm themselves on the hot (yet perilous) tarmac.  From what I've read it looks like the venomous yet endangered Milos Viper.  Do I sound rather blase about this?  I'm really not!  I now find myself walking straight down the middle of the empty road so that I will get advance warning of any oncoming vipers!

As we approach a wide bend in the road we see below the village of Platis Gialos.  First things first.  We stop off at cafe bar La Playa for chocolate crepes and ice cream!

The village is also almost deserted but I imagine it is completely different in mid season.  Platis Gialos is pretty but there isn't much to do (and the sea is still a bit cold).  We have a wander around the streets and pop into several of the potteries where we make a few purchases to take home with us.

This is what holidays are all about - a late breakfast on the beach! 

Today we're going to explore Kamares a bit more and decide to walk along the bay path past Agia Marina to Agia Ekaterini.  We decide not to climb the 2000 steps up to Agia Marina in the midday sun but decide to do it one evening instead. 

 The little church at Agia Ekaterini is wonderful. It seems to be surrounded by a small monastery complex. We think we are completely alone but it appears that this monastery buildings surrounding the church has visitors.  They appear to be packing to leave so we continue to explore (despite their efforts to ignore us!).  The church is so photogenic from any angle.  Painted white steps lead down to the sea edge.

 After our brief exploration of the area we take a slow walk back.  Before we reach Agia Marina we stop to watch an oil tanker come into port.  It is completely fascinating to watch the furore of activity that ensues when a large vessel comes into port.

We spend a lazy afternoon on the beach at Kamares.  Despite being backed by a dense bamboo wall, the small narrow beach is still subject to the wind which is still making its presence felt.  The sea is still cold but Peter braves the waves and goes for a swim - too chilly for me!

We eventually head back to Pension Morfeus  to get showered and changed before heading out for our evening meal and stroll around the port.  First things first - we take the path that leads up above the port to see if we can catch a good view of the sunset.  Not the most romantic setting - we end up at the water treatment plant - nonetheless a great vantage point for the sunset!

This evening we eat at taverna Captain Andreas which is next to the Captains Bar on the beach at Kamares (and just a short walk from Morfeus).  I can categorically state that these are the best dolmades I have  ever tasted!  I have meatballs and Peter has  lamb in lemon sauce.  This is finished with  lovely spoon sweets (glykó tou koutalioú) -this time lemon.

After a stroll along the beach, back to Pension Morfeus which is so pretty at night.

From what we have deduced - most buses depart from the islands capital Apollonia so we catch the first bus up there.

First stop for breakfast is the cafe in Hotel Anthousa and Patisserie right in the centre of the town.  Before we leave we given a biscuit each from the patisserie.

We follow the path out of the village to Pano Petali.

The path continues on to the village of Artemenos where we stop in the pretty square for a cup of tea.  We can smell the freshly baked produce coming from the nearby bakery.  The pottery chimney pots are really something!

We continue down an almost deserted road towards the windmill which now provides accommodation for tourists.  

It is a bit overcast today but that doesn't detract from the amazing view of neighbouring islands.  I'm sure the islands we can see are Anti Paros, Paros, Naxos and maybe even a bit of Sikinos and Ios (pushing it a bit!).  I don't think I have ever seen so many islands from one vantage point like this before - it was pretty amazing!  

From here we can also see the village of Poulati

It is very hard to resist to keep on walking to keep discovering what is around the corner.  We do keep on walking along the coastal road until the road almost grinds to a halt.  Down below we can see what we think is the Kastro but it looks so far away.  To get to it we need to start walking through farmland and down winding paths that look quite labyrinthine from where we are standing.  Peter goes on ahead to explore and I wander around photographing the wildlife!

So close and yet so far - but we decide to call it a day anyway.  We head back through the same little villages again in reverse.

As we pass through Pano Petali again, an elderly lady waves her arms to Peter to attract his attention.  She beckons him to climb the steps to her little balcony and through gestures asks him to unpeg her washing from the washing line (like being at home eh Peter!).

Our last breakfast at the Serifos Palace is again fantastic.  I will say this has been some of the best breakfasts we have ever had in the Greek islands.  There is a nice big round flat cheese pie each, cake, bread and jam and cheese and ham - brilliant!

Being the only people staying in the hotel has also been wonderful!  Apart from the howling wind it has been really peaceful.

We speak to Matoula again to confirm that we will be picked up at 7pm for the ferry and she seems to understand and confirms.  We pay for the room but she doesn't have change but indicates we will get this later.

Our last day is going to be another lazy day on the beach.  As with our previous visit the wind is really strong down on the beach but we find a little cove to take shelter in.

We had a lovely lunch at Alexandros Vassilias. Vassilia suggested we had tzatziki "very nice very fresh",  and potatoes cooked in the oven. We also have a Greek salad and fried cheese and beer. To finish the meal we are presented with preserved prunes (spoon fruit or Glyka Koutaliou) in syrup on Greek yoghurt - delicious!  Vassilia so nice and friendly.

Matoula has raised the bar with the breakfast again today!

We decide to go out straight after breakfast and catch the bus directly to the Chora.  There is no let up with the wind.  We had met a couple of Dutch tourists at the bus stop who were travelling around the islands as part of a walking holiday with another couple. They were going to do one of the recommended walks above the Chora.

Peter was keen to explore the area above the Chora further and set off on his own across the very windy hills!

I decided to explore the lower Chora which is very beautiful - in an understated way. This is the beautiful Chora that I'd read about!

By following the winding streets I found myself on the path up to the Kastro.

I tried to brave it to the top but it was just a little bit too blowy and I'm too much of a coward!

Today it is still very windy and a little bit chilly.  There is another amazing breakfast on offer but we inside the apartment today as the outside furniture is being blown all over the courtyard.  We have ham, cheese, boiled eggs, a loaf of bread with honey and jam, spanokopita and halva - what a feast!

We decide to have a relaxing day on the beach.

We started the day with an amazing breakfast.  Matoula was already downstairs in the small kitchen off the courtyard when we came down at 9.00am.  She brought us a generous spread of boiled eggs, bread with jam and honey, cheese, ham and a semolina type desert with sultanas and sprinkled with cinnamon - I think it was halva. An amazing feast to start the day!  This truly makes up for the smelly bathroom and mosquitoes!

Today we leave for Serifos but the ferry isn't until late afternoon.  Once we pack we go and pay for our stay with Katerina who orders a taxi to pick us up ate 5.00pm.

Photo's of Filoxenia

This is our last opportunity to wander the pretty streets of the Chora. We cut through the Gazoza Cafe Bar from the main street and discover a new alleyway with the most beautiful painted pots.  I don't quite know how we missed this first time around.

Today we are going to visit the village of Dryopida  Like Kea there isn't a bus service running at this time of year so we book a taxi - or rather Katerina phones for a taxi for us.  The journey spirals up above the Chora and then drops down again it Dryopida itself.  We are dropped off on the main street leading into the village.  Dryopida used to be the capital of the island and takes its name from it's first settlers on the island, the Driopes.

http://www.kythnosislandgreece.com/kythnosislandtravelguide/kythnosislandtownsvillages/dryopidavillagekythnosisland/index.html

In particular we are keen to visit the Katafyki Caves.  We decided to explore the village first and hopefully would find the location of the caves in doing so.  We weren't 100% sure that the caves would be open to the public at this time of year.

We found a cafe to have brunch.  The old man from the cafe told us that the cave wasn't open at this time of year as it was still low season.  We ordered a Greek salad and a 'special' omelette with tea. As we tucked into salad and tea a group of about 20 elderly Greek ladies walked by.

George was still asleep when we left so we didn't get chance to say goodbye.

On the way to the port we pick up some pastries from the bakery for breakfast.  The Aqua Spirit is on time and she is virtually empty.  Farewell Kea!

Hello Kythnos!

When we arrive at Kythnos we still hadn't decided where to stay - Port or Chora.  I had read that the Chora was very pretty but had limited accommodation.  I had read great reviews about a small place called Filoxenia in the Chora.  We decide to deliberate over a cup of tea.  I'd managed to pick up free wifi - the island has it's own - and I emailed Maria the owner of Filoxenia.  I didn't know how long it would take to get a reply so in the end we decided to take a chance and get a taxi up to the Chora anyway.

When we arrived at Filoxenia, a lady was waiting for us in a beautiful, flower filled courtyard.  Maria had phoned her mother to tell her to expect us - Maria was in Athens.

Katerina showed us to a room which was absolutely delightful with lots of little extras.  The view of the mountains from the balcony was breathtaking.

After a quick unpack we set out to explore the Chora - and the description if it was right - it really is a pretty little Chora.

George had said that whenever a ferry is due in port the bus would be there to take people to the Chora so we decided that we would be at the port just before 8am.  

We went to the local bakery and bought some pastries and sat on a bench to eat them whilst we waited for the Aqua Jewel to come in.

What a fabulous day!  The sun is glorious and there is a slight breeze - great walking weather and what better way to discover the area.

We are now able to appreciate the pretty garden of the United Europe - obviously tended to with great care by it's owners.

We walk to the port and decide to walk to the lighthouse at Agios Nikolaus.  The one thing that stands out is the most amazing display of spring flowers at every turn.

The coastline meanders in and out along the edges the deep bay.  The first place we come across is the little village of Vourkari. 

Just beyond the village we stumble across an archaeological site which is fenced off.  We later find out is the prehistorical site of Agria Irini.  See a bit of history from Matt Barrett's Travel Guides  http://www.greektravel.com/greekislands/kea/history.html

A little further around the bay we walk past what looks like a former landing quay for ships and the remains of a settlement.  A sign close by gives a clue.  The sign indicates that the Mixalinos Coal Emporium Company was operating there between 1895 and 1940.  It makes sense that this was a harbour for coal carrying ships.  Closeby we also pass a plaque commemorating the efforts of national hero Lambros Katsonis.

An excerpt from www.keatours.gr provides a bit more information

Moving to the narrow peninsula further down, one finds, now deserted, Kokka.

This was once an industrial area, one of the most important refuelling stations for coal- powered ships in Greece and a strong source of income for the island.

Today the coal warehouses and the workers’ houses, built at the end of the 19th century, as well as the central supply pier, lie deserted, left to the ravages of time.

The road past Kokka leads to a narrow strip of land between the open sea and the gulf of Agios Nikolaos, known as the narrow strait of Lambros Katsonis, which highlights the role played by Tzia in the pre-1821 revolutionary period. As recounted by the marble memorial sculpted by the island’s own Georgios Xionatos and positioned at this spot, the glorious seafarer Lambros Katsonis, serving in the Russian Navy during the Russo-Turkish War (1787-1792), used the port of Kea as his base.

After a bloody battle with a division of the Turkish fleet in 1789, he was cut-off in the port, but managed to escape during the night to the open sea by carrying his ship over the narrow strait of Kokka with the help of the local inhabitants. For their dedication to Katsonis’ cause, the inhabitants  of Kea suffered slaughter and destruction at

the hands of the Turks, while the Bishop of the island was hanged because he had officiated over Katsonis’ marriage to Maroulio, daughter of a local noble, Petros Sophianos.

Katsonis and Maroulio had three sons, the first of whom was murdered in Kea by the Turks.

From the narrow strait of Lambros Katsonis the path leads to the  lighthouse of Agios Nikolaos, which greets and bids farewell to the boats in the bay, as well as navigating passing ships. Built on the ruins of the sacred temple of Poseidon by the French Lighthouse Company (height of tower is 8m and height of focal plane is 32m),

it was the first lighthouse built in the Cyclades, in 1831, and the second in Greece.

We also find out later through a discussion on Matt Barrett's Greece Travel Guide Facebook Group that just off the coast of Kea was the scene of a terrible tragedy which resulted in the sinking of Titanic's sister ship the Britannic.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/3279154/Wreck-of-Titanics-sister-ship-to-become-underwater-museum.html

As we begin our approach to the peninsula and the lighthouse we detour to a stone building on top of the hill that offers fabulous views  of the coastline, inland and out out to sea.

We walk back down the slope to take the lower path around to the lighthouse.  The hillside is absolutely covered with pretty lilac coloured flowers.  There is a lady picking a bunch of these flowers and we open a conversation by agreeing how beautiful the flowers are.  She tells us that the flower is called Statice or Sea lavender and is used in dried flower displays in the home in Greece  We stay and talk a little and find out that she is a teacher and had lived in England for a while.  

Limonium sinuatum, commonly known as Statice, Sea Lavender, Notch Leaf Marsh Rosemary, Sea Pink, Wavy Leaf Sea Lavender,^[1][2] is a Mediterranean plant species in the family Plumbaginaceae known for its papery flowers that can be used in dried arrangements.

It is a short-lived perennial plant, and is often treated as an annual. The leaves are pinnate, lobed, and lance-shaped - up to 10 cm long (3.9 inches). All parts are downy. The winged flower stems appear in summer, and are about 70 cm tall (27.5 inches). The flowers present in short, papery clusters in colours ranging from white to pink, purple, and yellow. It has been known to become invasive.^[3]

The lighthouse is a few minutes walk around and up the peninsula.  The area is deserted and we are the only people there.  We sit and rest on the lighthouse wall and admire the beautiful view. The breeze is just perfect.

The walk back to Korissia gives the opportunity to take photographs of more flowers and we also spot a bench overlooking the deep St Nikolause Bay which I had read is a great spot to watch the sunset.  We'll be back there later!

Once back at Korissia we have a nice treat.

Kea Sunset and nightfall

We had originally planned to stay only for 2 nights on Kea but felt that we hadn't even touched the island.  Although we appeared to be the only people staying at the United Europe we went to speak to George to let him know that we would like to stay another night.  George invited us into his home and introduced us to his wife Birgitte.  George was insistent that we stay and have a drink with them which of course we couldn't refuse.  George (he uses his English name to us) tells us that he worked in England for a few years.   During the conversation we told them about the beautiful purple flowers we had seen growing on the hillside and noticed that there was a display of them in a vase in their kitchen.  We had taken cuttings of various plants on our visits to the Greek islands and had managed to keep them alive back in the UK.  Birgitte  said she had some seeds of a lovely plant that grows with many different coloured flowers and she put some in a tissue for me.  We told George that we wanted to go and see the Kea Lion and asked if any buses were running.  It seems that at this time of year the bus doesn't run very frequently but George told us that there will be a bus when a ferry arrives in port.  So we have a plan of action for tomorrow!

We're so thrilled to have 16 days for this island hopping trip and also to be here at the time of year.  I haven't been to Greece in spring for many years but remember the abundance of beautiful flowers - heaven!

This year we plan to travel from Lavio Port to Kea and then around to Kythnos, Serifos, Sifnos and Syros and then back to Athens for a few days.

A straight forward flight from Manchester to Athens - just how I like it!

We need to catch a bus to the port of Lavrio.  Instead of catching the bus right outside the arrivals terminal as we would to catch the bus to Piraeus, we cross the road towards the Marriot Hotel.  (don't cross the road - the bus stop is on the left.)   After about 20 minutes a bus arrives - we travel to Markopoulo which is about a 10 minute journey where we change to catch the bus to Lavrio.  A great way to check where you are so that you don't miss you stop is by using an app with offline maps and GPS capabilities.

Luckily our flight is at midday so after breakfast we head straight off to the metro station at Monistiraki.  I don't like hanging around on the last day and like to just get home as fast as possible.

We take the blue line which we thought would take us directly to the airport.  However, passengers for the airport are instructed to leave the train at Doukisses Plakentias station where we wait for another airport train.  

The Athens metro is immaculate, well priced and very efficient.  The journey back to the airport is very enjoyable and we take in the last views of the landscape before arriving at the airport.

Final thoughts.

This has been an amazing trip and has absolutely rekindled my love for the Cycladic islands.  Highlight island of the trip was definitely Folegandros - rugged, wild and stunningly beautiful.  I know I'll go back again another time.  It was great to revisit Antiparos - I love this little island and am always tempted to linger longer.

It was brilliant to visit Athens again after so long.  When I was last there about 20 years ago my overwhelming impression of the city was that it looked like Beirut.  Now it is a city ravaged by grafitti, very tired around the edges but still an amazing city to visit.

The Attalos Hotel was brilliant and will definitely stay there again - staff were friendly and helpful and the location was just perfect - of course the view from the roof terrace was the icing on the cake!

Island hopping in Greece becomes addictive.  I've lost count of the number of Greek islands I have actually visited - nearly 40 at the latest estimate.  We are already planning our next trip - we were very taken with the look of the Western Cycladic islands that we sailed past on the way back to Athens - Serifos, Kythnos.  But that's next year.  Roll on retirement!

The Acropolis opens at 8.00am.  Despite being a regular visitor to Greece it is nearly 20 years since I have been to Athens.  What I do remember is the massive queues to get into the Acropolis and the difficulty in getting photographs without hoards of tourists in the background.  No matter how exhausted we are we aim to be at the Acropolis ticket office by 7.30am!

We set off through Monastiraki, past Tsisdarakis Mosque and the Library of Hadrian.

Tsisdarakis Mosque (Greek: Τζαμί Τσισδαράκη) is an 18th-century Ottoman mosque, now functioning as a museum, in central Athens, Greece. The mosque is standing in front of the Monastiraki station.

Tsisdarakis was governor of Athens in the middle of the eighteenth century, who constructed this mosque in 1759, according to an inscription on the mosque. He brought to this mosque some columns from the Temple of Olympian Zeus. But as he did this without due permission of the Sultan, he was heavily fined and chased out from his position. The minaret of the mosque was destroyed after the outbreak of the Greek Revolution 1821.

After independence, the mosque was used by the army in various ways, including as a prison and barracks. In 1915 it was partly rebuilt and was used as "Museum of Greek Handwork", while in 1923 as "National Museum of Decorative Arts". From 1959 on it became the Museum of Greek Traditional Art. In 1973 the main functions of the Museum of Greek Folk Art moved to 17 Kydanthinaion Str., with the mosque remaining as an annex to it. The V. Kyriazopoulos pottery collection of ceramics remains in the mosque to this day. In 1981 the building was damaged by an earthquake and was repaired.

As we climb up through picturesque Plaka and reach the ancient Agora, I begin to have flashbacks!  The last time I was in Athens I had just returned from my first island hopping trip.  I had gone with a boyfriend of only 6 months and by then I had realised that he was a bit of a nightmare. We had visited Andros, Mykonos, Naxos, Paros and Antiparos. Things had become tense during the last few days of the holiday and this charming man left me on Antiparos and scooted back to Athens.  Having never island hopped before, I'd allowed him to take charge of the itinerary, the money - everything!  Granted, I was a bit naive then!

Anyway, the plan was to leave for Athens that evening on an overnight ferry leaving a whole day in Athens.  The flight back to Manchester left in the early hours of the following day.  I had enough money to see me through so took the night ferry which arrived in Piraeus at the crack of dawn.  I walked towards the city with a heavy rucksack on my back.  I had no idea on how to get to the centre of Athens and didn't get much joy from the locals.  It was a bit of a culture shock after receiving such kind hospitality from the island folk.  I managed to get directions to the metro and worked out how to buy a ticket to Syntagma Square.  I needed to find somewhere to leave my rucksack so that I could take the trip up to the Acropolis - how could I ever come to Athens and not visit here?

I remember having a conversation with a young German man in French - the only common language we could find - and mine being GCE level French didn't help.  Once we understood each other he directed me to a small hotel that would look after luggage for a few dracma.

I headed up to the the Acropolis.  It was very busy but I was just delighted that I hadn't wasted a day in Athens feeling sorry for myself.  By the time I'd finished visiting the site it was getting very hot.  I was exhausted as it had been over 24 hours since I'd had any sleep.  As I walked back down past the Agora, I seized the opportunity to have a rest in the shade.  I remember finding some shade under a large rock and before I knew it my eyes had closed and I began to nod off.  It had only been a few minutes when I was rudely awakened by a man sitting next to me rubbing my leg saying "hello pretty lady".  I was horrified!  I think I said some swear words to him, grabbed my small bag and legged it back down to Plaka as fast as my weary legs would carry me!

No sooner had I arrived back to the hotel to retrieve my rucksack, I was now being heckled by another man on a motorbike.  I'd just about had enough by then and decided that I would be safer at the airport - even though I had about 12 hours before my flight left.  At least I could get some sleep on the airport floor without being harassed!

This sounds like a completely hideous holiday with a completely hideous man - however, it was this trip that gave me the island hopping bug so at least for this, I am forever grateful!

This could be the very rock that I sheltered under!

Back to today, we arrive at the Acropolis ticket office to see that a party of around 20 people are already there - that's not too bad!  We waited for about 10 minutes for the ticket office to open and hot footed it up towards the Acropolis entrance as soon as we had our tickets in our hot little hands!

As we begin to admire the views of the Odeon of Herodes Atticus from above, a parade of soldiers march past us.  I think this is part of a daily ritual where they march out of the Acropolis at opening time and back in again once the Acropolis closes.

Once we'd climbed through the main entrance of the Acropolis we begin to explore the three main temples - the Parthenon, the Temple of Athena and the Erechteion.

The Parthenon

The Erechteion

The Temple of Athena

The views from the Acropolis are stunning!  Here you can see the Temple of Zeus, Filipappas Hill (known as the Hill of Muses) and Areopagus (Mars Hill)

By the time we leave the Acropolis is swarming with hoards of tourists so I'm glad that we got there early!

We only one whole day in Athens so we need to get around this large city the best way we can.  We decide to catch the Hop on Hop off bus at the Acropolis.  We don't have to wait too long but whilst waiting we engage in conversation with the bus sales lady.  She asks us where we are from and tells us that she used to work in a hospital in Leeds.  "Don't get me wrong, I wasn't a doctor or anything, but I loved living and working in Leeds - the people are so friendly".

The next stop on our itinerary is the changing of the guard (Evzoni) in front of the Tomb of the Unnamed Soldier at the parliament building in Syntagma Square.  

http://www.greeka.com/attica/athens/athens-history/athens-changing-guards.htm

Close inspection!

I'm a little bit squeamish about photographs like this but I got caught up in the moment!  Be prepared to fight for your place in the queue and remember - queuing means nothing outside of the UK!

It is now nearly midday and getting very hot so we decide to hop back onto the bus and just take in the sights of the city.  During the journey we get off to find a photography/camera shop to get the photos from one of my memory cards saved to CD to make space for more photo's.

We jump off the bus to pay a quick visit to the Temple of Zeus

Back on the bus we go past Panathinaikos Stadium where the first modern Olympic games was hosted in 1896.  Built entirely out of marble, the stadium was originally built in 566bc and rebuilt in marble in 329 bc.  

When we reach Syntagma Square again we decide to go into the metro station to look at the archaeological collection.  

http://www.athensattica.gr/en/you-are-here/what-to-see/ancient-sites/item/5430-syntagma-metro-station-archaeological-collection

We decide to have a short visit to the Flea Market at Monastiraki - no beauty pageants on this evening but still vibrant and bustling nonetheless.

On the way back to the hotel we go into the fish market on Attica Street.

What an exhausting day.  We shower and return to the roof terrace for cocktails before heading out to Plaka to do a bit more exploring and to have our last meal in Athens.  The Attalos Hotel is definitely what you'd call basic accommodation but it is clean and more than anything convenient.

First stop is Athens Cathedral which is undergoing refurbishment.

On the way out of the cathedral our attention is caught by the sound of a church service taking place in a tiny little church called the Church of Theotokos Gorgoepikoos and Ayios Eleytherios.  After the service Peter is greeted by the priest who asks him where he is from.  They briefly discuss the situation in Egypt and the priest gives his blessing for peace in Egypt.

http://wikimapia.org/6686719/Church-of-Theotokos-Gorgoepikoos-St-Eleftherios

We stroll up through Plaka.  The evening is warm and balmy.  We are absolutely spoiled for choice for places to eat but we settle on a little taverna with a roof terrace that overlooks Athens but is also nestled underneath the Acropolis.

This is a lovely end to an amazing trip!