Friday 26th June 2015 - Plaka Beach and a Sunset Piano Recital in the Kastro

What's wrong with me - this our second beach day in a row!  Today we decide to go to Plaka - lets see if it's the same as I remember it from 20 odd years ago!

The bus takes us past the airport which is surrounded by salt flats.  Not sure I fancy landing on that runway!

We get off at Plaka but decide to walk further along the coast, passing the high sand dunes that screen off the nudist beach.

After a nice day doing nothing we catch the bus back to the port and have a wander around the streets in the chora.

This evening we have a delicious meal in Apostilles.  Greek salad, roast lamband lamb ragout  with a nice white wine finished off with some delicious psimeni raki.  A bouzouki player adds extra atmosphere.


This evening Marco has ordered us some tickets for the piano concern in the Kastro with Viktorya Belskaya.  We are able to get the front row seats for the price of 15 euros each.

This is an amazing location for the concert - a low wall lined with basil plants overlooks the portara and the evening sky.

The concert is introduced by a handsome moustachioed gentleman who starts by rustling the basil plants sending wafts of scent across the room.  The wind has picked up, and he tells us that the god of the winds either angry or drunk.  He tells us that in the intermission there will be complimentary drinks and we are not restricted to one drink and that if anyone is driving not to worry - he is a very good friend of the police!

The concert is wonderful.  Victorya is a very talented pianist and composer and set against the backdrop of the Kastro makes it extra special.  A truly memorable evening.



Thursday 25th June 2015 - A Nice Lazy Day on Agios Anna Beach - Well it is a Holiday!

It was 9.30am before we awoke and we were feeling quite exhausted.  We decide to have a lazy day on the beach to finally lay all of the stresses of the previous days travel to rest.

We had picked up the bus timetable the previous evening and it shows that there is a very good service on the island.

The buses run every 30 minutes from the port around to Plaka but today we decide to take the bus to the nearer beach of Agios Prokopios.

We got off as soon as we saw the sign for Prokopios but this was one stop too early.  No problems - it gave us the opportunity to look at some of the hotels in the area.  My sister was planning to come to Naxos so I was on the look out for something a bit upmarket for her.  It's a short walk from the bus stop to the beach.  I can feel the stress and tiredness peel away from me by the second!

Getting carried away with our exploring we find ourselves walking a bit further around the bay in Agios Anna and decide to settle on a nice quiet part of the beach by cafe bar By Ammo.  The sunloungers are free to customers too.  They sell some amazing loukoumades - it would be so rude not to! I did feel a bit sick afterwards but it was worth it.

http://naxosguideapp.com/package/by-ammo-4/

This small stretch of beach is very attractive with powder white sand, shallow waters and areas where you can find a bit of seclusion.  It has a great selection of bars on offer mostly all with wifi.

Later in the afternoon we walk along the bay towards Agios Anna church
Watch out for the great white .............

Agios Anna Church
A nice beach side shack for my sister?  Maybe not!
This has been a nice start to the holiday.  Back to the hotel to shower and change.

First a wander around the Kastro area

My sister had mentioned an interest in Hotel Glaros in Agios Giorgios close to Naxos town so we decide to head out there to take a look.  There are some fabulous sunset views along the way.

Hotel Glaros is very nice though booking is through their website only.
After the loukamades earlier I'm not hungry so we walk to the portara in the hope that I'll build up an appetite.

Keen to explore the island further during our stay we book a bus tour for Saturday.

We buy giros and eat back on the balcony washed down with some retsina.

Wednesday 24th June 2015 - Arrival on Santorini and a Mad Dash to Naxos

We are so lucky to have 18 days for this trip.  Last year we had 16 days for our trip to Kea, Kythnos, Serifos and Sifnos and those extra couple of days really made all the difference to a regular two week holiday.  I had taken so long deliberating over which islands to visit this time but eventually decided to focus on the Little Cyclades.  After spreading out a large wall map on the carpet and my laptop with Greek Travel Pages open close by, I had worked out that it would be more efficient to fly to Santorini rather than Athens.  Not a choice I made lightly as I do love a few days in Athens at the end of an island hopping trip and I'm not a massive fan of Santorini.  Now let me clarify that last statement - it's not that I don't like Santorini - it's the fact that millions of other people love Santorini and it's way too busy for me!  

Naxos is the best island as a starting point for the Little Cyclades and it has been over 20 years since I had been there so I am really looking forward to visiting again.  The plan is from Naxos to visit Iraklia, Schinoussa and Koufonissi and if we are able to - a few days on one of my other favourite islands Amorgos!

There is an Easyjet flight from Manchester that is scheduled to arrive on Santorini at 13.50 and the last ferry of the day to Naxos leaves at 15.30.  If the flight is on time we should be able to make this easily.  Just to prevent a little bit of the faff, we pre booked and pre paid 40 euros for a taxi to pick us up and take us straight to the port.  I phoned their office to stress the importance of the taxi being on time as we had a ferry to catch at 15.30.  No problem!  Haha!

Thankfully the flight was on time and gave me a bit of confidence that we would easily catch the ferry.  As we start heading over the coast of mainland Greece I began to get my bearings and recognise that we are flying just west of Halkidiki - I can see the three fingers very clearly and the peak of Mount Athos jutting out in the distance.  Not a very clear photo however.

Does anyone else play Spot the Island from their window seat?  I'm such an anorak!

Siros

Paros with Antiparos in the foreground

Ios

As we came into land on Santorini, my window seat offered spectacular views over the caldera and volcano!

Passport control was a breeze.  All we have to do is get into the waiting taxi and head off to the port, buy our ferry tickets and Bob's your uncle!

As we exited the airport we were pleased to see a taxi driver holding up a card  with our name.  He told us to wait whilst he tracked down another couple but so far it's looking promising.  The other couple arrived and the taxi driver (who had had his phone glued to his ear since we saw him) was frantically making call after call - I'm assuming to find out where the other taxi was.  After 15 minutes of this, us and the other couple were getting a bit irritated - the only words we could get out of the taxi driver was "wait".  

After another 5 minutes of this he told us to wait and another taxi would be arrive shortly to take us to the port.  The other couple were  staying on Santorini - but we had a ferry to catch but in his wisdom he decides to take them as a priority - not very happy! 

After another 20 minutes we realise that the taxi isn't going to arrive so we had to make a judgement call and decided to take one of the taxi's from the stand.  We were now under great time pressure to get to the port.   The taxi driver understands our plight and takes those bad boy bends down to the port like he's on a life saving mission!

As we get out of the taxi the Blue Star Delos was already arriving into port.  The queue for the ticket office was really long with least another 20 people queuing to purchase tickets.  The temperature is quite high at this point - and so are my stress levels!

After 25 minutes in the queue Peter comes back with the tickets and we make our way towards the "cattle shed"  to join the queue - I say queue - it's more of a disorganised crowd moving vaguely in the same direction.  Getting off the ferry are hoards of people - thank God we're going in the opposite direction!

The sheer relief when I eventually make it under the shade of the cattle shed!  Back out into the searing heat again as we head towards the BS Delos but before long we are dumping our luggage on the car deck and making our way up to the top deck.  Now I can relax!

With a cup of tea in hand I can now admire the amazing views of Santorini from a distance - just how I like it!

I enjoyed the 2 hour journey but can't wait to unpack and get that first glass of wine in my hand.

We had booked 4 nights at Panorama in the town just below the Kastro.  I'd booked directly with them saving a few euros off the Booking.com price.  A couple of friendly email exchanges with Irene confirmed that Marcos would be waiting for us at the port when we arrived.

As we arrived at Naxos port we could see Panorama from the deck.

Down to the car deck we head - this is one of the most exciting parts of ferry travel - the anticipation of what this island and this trip has to bring.   We disembark and look around for a sign saying Panorama. We couldn't see Marcos so after a while we decided to head straight up to Panorma - we kind of know roughly where it is but there is a chance we will get lost in the winding streets.

And we do!  We keep trying to reposition ourselves so that we are heading towards the Kastro.  It's hot, it's all up hill and my suitcase weighs a ton!  After a few wrong turns we eventually find ourselves at the steps of Panorama.  Coming up another set of steps is an out of breath Marcos who had been searching the whole of the port area  for us!

After a nice welcome drink we are shown our room.  Marcos is very informative and helpful.  There is a little shared balcony outside our room and a huge roof terrace with amazing views over the port. 

Irene had promised me a room with a good view and look what we got!  Amazing!

We're shower and change and now it's time to relax.  We head up to the roof terrace to watch the sun set.  We can see groups of people already gathering by the portara but we get a much better view here!


On our way out to eat we see Marcos who passes on regards from Irene who wishes us an enjoyable stay.  He also tells us about the cultural shows that take place in the Kastro.  If we want to go to any of them he can get discounted tickets for us - brilliant!

Starvation has now hit us to we have a quick wander around streets below the Kastro before deciding to eat at Metaxi Mas, a little taverna sitting on one of the pretty little streets.

We have olive tapanade, Greek salad and garlic sauce with some nice crusty bread to start.  I have Greek sauasage and Peter has sardines.  I don't know whether it's exhaustion, elation at finally being here or starvation but we actually don't take photographs of this meal - we just relish it - our first Greek meal of the holiday.  Oh it's so good to be back!

Sunday 12th October 2014 - Goodbye Sivota!

We have our last fabulous breakfast at the Albatros.  I would definitely recommend this small family run hotel. It has the friendliness of a family hotel but with very high standards and excellent customer service.

We have a final stroll around the marina before returning for our taxi

This has been a wonderful holiday.  Even the torrential rain and thunderstorms on the first few days were enjoyable.  One week has been very short and it is definitely an area that I would like to explore further, but look who we're going home to see!

NB - This photo blog was written 9 months after the trip with only notes for the first 2 days of the trip.  I've done the best possible with the few grey cells I have left!


Saturday 11th October 2014 - More Beaches and our Last Night in Sivota

This really is turning out to be a beach holiday - well on the days we had sunshine anyway.  We aren't sit on the beach all day people but with the lack of excursions (I had really wanted to go to Albania and also a trip to Corfu or one of the Sivotan islands) we are making the best of things and also taking the opportunity to relax.

At the marina there is a set of steps that leads up to a path that takes you around the bay in the opposite direction to the beaches we had already visited. The first beach we come to is Gallikos Molos Beach, a narrow stretch of sand and stone with the most crystal of waters. It's too cold to swim but it is heaven to walk along the deserted beach.  The view from here to the Sivotan islands is beautiful.

The next beach we reach is Zeri Beach where we are surprised to see water park complete with multi coloured water slides.  It seems so out of place here.

The path takes us back up onto the road again and we access the beach from behind the water park.  The beach doesn't disappoint and we're quite happy to spend the rest of the day here.

That evening we decide to have our final meal down at the marina.  Vangelis is out on the prowl for tourists but we are keen to another taverna on the front.  We choose O Faros which is next to Vangelis's restaurant and he provides us with some good entertainment as he tried to entice tourists in.  There is clearly stiff competition amongst the restaurants in the marina.

We can see a man sitting on the harbour wall selling small bags of oregano - we buy a couple of bags to take home.  Our meal is a great feast.  We start with tzatziki and dolmades, Peter has the seafood platter and I have lamb stifado - one of my favourites.

This is a nice last meal of the holiday!

One last stroll around the marina before returning back to the hotel

Friday 10th October 2014 - Sunset from Perdika Village and New of a New Baby!

We take advantage of the nice weather spend the morning on Zavia Beach, saving our appetite for the evening.

Late afternoon we change and get ready to head up to Perdika Village on the bus.  This is the last bus of the day so we also take the details of Giogios the taxi driver so that we can book our return journey to Sivota.

The House of Sweets really does have the best vantage point from where to watch the sunset so we order some wine ready to watch the sun set behind the island.  Whilst we are there I receive a phone call from my eldest son Tony to tell us that his partner Kerry has given birth to a baby girl!  I had been on tenterhooks every day since we left home but this is amazing news. As the sun goes down on another day in Greece a new life begins at home!

After a stroll around the village we decide to eat in restaurant Ta Kavouria right in the middle of the square.  We chose well.  Clearly the central point for the local community, from here we see all walks of local life coming and going.

The meal is simple but delicious - I have the local sausage and Peter has rabbit.  We toast the birth of our new baby granddaughter again!

Thursday 9th October 2014 - Exploring the Beaches and up to Perdika Village

Another bright day!  We decide to discover more of the coastline with an early morning walk.

We had only viewed Zavia beach from the main road above the other day so decide to walk down to the beach itself - it's only 700 metres from Sivota village. The walk down a steep path brings us to an olive grove and through the clearing is access to the beach.  The cyclamen growing amongst the wild grass are in splendid form this morning. A concrete terrace has a number of parasolled tables and chairs and stone steps lead down to the beach itself.  The beach is set in a deep narrow bay and the beach is sand/stone - very beautiful set against the backdrop of the greenery.

Although it's warm it isn't warm enough to swim in the sea.  We sit on the beach for half and hour then set off to Mega Ammos the next beach along the road.

Again the views of the coastline below are stunning.  

Mega Ammos is a beautiful beach - just 1.5 kilometres from Sivota Village.  The path to the beach is pretty steep - more noticeable on the way up!

We stay for a short while and then walk to Mikro Ammos beach.  We watch galleon style boat come into the bay.  Excursions are running from somewhere - probably from Corfu as there is absolutely nothing running from Sivota.

Despite the short distance between the beaches the walk up and down from the main road is strenuous work and it's quite warm today. Luckily we have times it just right to catch the bus back to Sivota village.

When passing through the village we had seen signs for The House of Sweets - Katie's Cakes up in Perdika and if there are cakes on offer I'll be there.  We check the bus time table and see there is a bus that goes there throughout the day and into the early evening so we catch the next one that leaves from the village.  

The House of Sweets is great with an extensive range of homemade cakes.  We stay for cake and tea.  The views of the bay below are stunning.  The village is quite charming and we imagine that is a really great place to watch the sunset from so we decide to come back the following evening for a meal but we will catch a taxi back.

The buses don't run very regularly so we ensure we catch the next bus back to Sivota.

That's a nice bit of exploration for the day!