Posts for Tag: antiparos

Tuesday 25th June 2013 - Farewell Antiparos - Hello Folegandros!

It is always sad leaving an island as is definitely the case today.  However, this feeling is offset in the knowledge that we are heading off to a brand new island - one that neither Peter or I have visited before.

When we awake we throw our last few bits into our suitcases.  I decide to shower first but am horrified to see a huge cockroach scuttling around the edge of the shower tray.  I leap back into the bedroom and onto the bed whilst Peter gives chase to the little (huge) blighter.  It runs under the bed, out from under the bed and under the chest of drawers.  It then makes a run for my suitcase and take the opportunity to leap between the open zips and squeeze down the side of my clothes.  Peter flicks it out with a Guide to Antiparos and it runs under the wardrobe.  After levering the wardrobe out from the wall Peter manages to corner it inside a plastic cup and dispose of it outside on the street.

Just as I was hoping to ease myself into the day gently!

Despite this little episode, Villa Harmonia was a nice place to stay, basic and clean and quiet and OK for 35 euros per night.

http://www.villaharmonia.gr/

The high speed ferry to Folegandros - The Aqua Spirit, is due to leave Paros at 11.50am so we are catching the 9.00am boat straight to Parikia.  I much prefer it when you can get a boat in the morning so the agony of leaving isn't prolonged.  We had the leaving trial run yesterday - now let's get on with it.

The boat is much busier today as yesterday was the last day of the festival and many of the Greek visitors will be returning to mainland Greece.  

I'm sure I'll be back to Antiparos for a fourth time - maybe more.  We barely ventured further than the town of Antiparos except to visit the cave - this has been quite a lazy first four days.  I would love to have visited the little island of Despotiko again and also walked to the Northern most point of the island to watch the sunset.  Definitely next time!

Farewell Antiparos - it's been a blast!

Before we leave Antiparos, here is a bit of Greek Mythology:

When we arrive at Parikia we still have a bit of time before the the high speed ferry arrives.  I sit in a cafe opposite the port cattle pens with the luggage whilst Peter goes to explore another church.  

When he returns we go to queue in cattle pens.  It's due to leave in 15 minutes but the turnaround time on the high speed ferries is much faster than the larger ferries.  It must be running late because the Blue Star Paros arrives - and then leaves.  A sea jet also arrives followed by the Blue Star Delos. 


The Aqua Spirit has missed its slot on the quay and Peter hears from the back of the queue that passengers for the high speed ferry have to walk over to the quay on the other side of the car park. Absolute confusion ensues.  We just follow the policeman who'd updated the people at the back of the queue.  Within minutes the Aqua Spirit appears in sight.


Boarding is quick and we decide to go up onto the top deck.  I'm looking forward to this journey and especially to see old friends like Naxos - even if it is from the deck of the ship.  But for now, farewell Paros!


I couldn't find any substantial information mythology about Paros but here is a little bit that I managed to find on Google.

There is a fantastic breeze up on the deck, the sky is blue and we can see for miles.  Blue Star Paros passes us on the way to Naxos - just because you're on a 'high speed ferry' doesn't mean you're on the fastest ship!


The first port of call is Naxos - again this is another island that I haven't visited for nearly 20 years so I'm excited to see it again.  As we approach the island, it's most famous landmark comes into view - the marble Portera standing proud on the little islet of Palatia.  One of the 'must do's' whilst visiting Naxos is to take an early evening stroll across the narrow causeway to the Portera and watch the glorious sunset.


Perched above Naxos town sits the Venetian kastro.  According to allgreektravel.com:

"The Venetian Castle (Kastro) was built by Marco Sanudo after the fourth crusade. 

He was part of the family of Enrico Dandolo, doge of Venice and participator of the crusade. 
Venice was the conqueror and Maro Sanudo founded, after occupying, the duchy of the Cyclades with its capital in Naxos (1207). 
The Kastro was built on dense constructions of the Middle Ages. The "Barozzi" House is located at the southwestern gate of the Kastro and is still in property of the family. The Barozzis were one of the 7 families who founded Venice and were barons on Santorini between 1207-1335. One of the houses of "Della Rokka", the old family "Del la Roche", great dukes of Athens and Attica, has a nice shop "Antico Venetico" selling old dishes, furniture and textiles in the backroom, reminding the rule of the dukes. Actually, it is more or less a museum and has 4 columns of classical temples. Della Rokkas still own one of the eldest pharmacies of the Cyclades (end of 19th century) in Naxos town."

I remember the kastro was so atmospheric at night.  Naxos also has beautiful long sandy beaches - some of the best in the Greek islands. The strongest memory of my stay on Naxos all those years ago is of a trip to Mount Zeus.  The plan was to find the cave where the god Zeus is said to have been born.  We took a bus up to the village of Filoti - even though it was hot and sunny down in the town, it was pouring with rain up in this small mountain village.  Before setting off on a the trek up the mountain I popped into a local cafe to use the facilities.  I had never seen such a revolting toilet in all my life!  Anyway, several other groups had planned to also trek up to the cave.  The Germans went one way, the Italians another. There wasn't any signage and after trekking up the mountain and then traipsing across several fields with only the Guide to Island Hopping for company we realised we were lost.  We stopped a farmer to ask the way to the cave communicating mainly by flailing our arms like idiots.  He beat a hasty retreat.  

After hours of walking around in circles we decided to call it a day - we never did find the cave.  It was a nice little adventure all the same.

Passengers have now disembarked or boarded and the ferry is now heading for Ios.  A short time after we are approached by a gentleman who tells us he is from the University of Skavangar and he is conducting a survey on travel in Greece.  He asks us if we will take part in the survey, which we agree to.  I takes five minutes to complete the survey and as I return it to him I tell him that if he ever needs an assistant for future studies around the Greek islands that I would make myself available!  If only!


It is a glorious day, quite hot but the wind blowing across the deck of the ferry keeps it the temperature down.  Before long we arrive at Ios.  What I read about Ios is that it's a party island and has amazing beaches.  As we pull into the pretty little port it's hard to imagine this reputation.  Two hills sit behind the port - one large and one small.  I count five whitewashed churches perched along the ridge of the smaller hill.  A larger church sits to the right of the port overlooking the bay.


We have one last stop at Sikinos before arriving at Folegandros.  


Using the GPS facility on Skitch we track our position and see that we are, at last approaching Folegandros.  I think this is the most exciting part of sea travel.  There is absolutely nothing like the feeling of anticipation as you arrive at a new island.    Standing on the car deck waiting for the back to come down as the new island slowly reveals itself.


We disembark and waiting on the left hand side of the port is a local bus - everyone seems to head straight for the bus.  We however, approach the small group of people holding photographs of rooms.  We know we want to stay in the chora  as we have heard that it is one of the prettiest in the Greek islands.  We have a budget of about 30 euros per night and a young man says he has just the place for us.  We pile our bags into the small minibus and head up the hill to Evgenia Rooms.

The hillside is covered with splintered slate from which purple thyme bursts forth.  The shattered green coloured slate looks as though it could slide down the hillside at any time.  I notice deep ditches at the base of the hillside and assume this is to capture stray rocks - or maybe divert rainfall from the mountains to prevent flooding.

It is a short journey up to the chora - only a few kilometres and we find Evgenia on the main street into the chora.  The young man tells us that the bus stop is 1 minute away next to the town hall, but after today it will be 1 minute in the other direction by the school.  He introduces us to his mother Evgenia and says that we can have a room for 30 euros or a studio for 35.  We opt for just a room.  As well as taking us up to the chora he will also pick us up and take us back to the port - we just need to let Evgenia know what day we are leaving the island.

The room is lovely, absolutely spotless, quite spacious and an immaculate bathroom.  Some little extras that we really appreciated was a large plastic bowl in the bathroom for washing and a drying stand on the balcony.  We didn't have anywhere to hang washing on Antiparos so had only washed small bits of clothing as we went along.   We stand and admire the gardens surrounding Hotel Polikandia across the road from us.  It has been landscaped with tall palms and potted plants which provide a backdrop to the pool and waterfall.  Fuschia pink Bougainvillea drapes itself over the little whitewashed apartments.


First things first, we unpack and shower, chucking all of our dirty clothes into the bathroom.  I wash the clothes in the large bowl and Peter rinses and squeezes.  It isn't long before the drying frame is completely full.

Now it's time to introduce our friend Pimms to the balcony!

I''m desperate to explore the chora after everything I have read about it.  Just  two minutes walk from Evegnia and next to the town hall is the most wonderful viewing point with fantastic views over the sea to Paros and Naxos.  Set into the cliffside, medieval stockade type houses hang precariously over the bay below.  This is part of the ancient kastro.


Looming above us, positioned almost directly above Evegnia is the Panagia church.  A whitewashed stone path zigzags its way up the hillside to the foot of the church - about a kilometre in total.  The view from up there must be spectacular so we make a mental note to put this on our itinerary.


We continue to walk further into the chora, expectations high - and we aren't disappointed.  The chora consists of a series of little squares shaded by mature plane trees, little tavernas each identified by the patterns on their table clothes of the colour of the painted furniture.  My first impression is that it is very 'boutique' - a little contrived but nonetheless very pretty and atmospheric - think Mykonos and Santorini but less busy.  Each square has its own picturesque whitewashed church providing a focal point.  The green slate is set into the street in traditional Cycladic style.  Folegandros chora really is picture perfect!

  
On one of the church walls we see a poster advertising the Folegandros Chora Races 2013.  We see this takes place tonight.  Runners from all over the world are invited to take part in one of three categories - the Folegandros Extreme Chora Race which starts at the port, goes up to the chora and then around the Angali Bend which is described as hard going with a 10 degree incline in stages, then back to the chora -   12 kilometres in total.  The second category is the 4.2 kilometre Marathon Light and starts at the Angali Bend and winds down the slopes to the chora.  The final category is the Team Competition where groups of three from the same family or community can take part in either of the races and fastest times are combined to determine the winning team.


We continue walking from square to square and spot a couple of tavernas that take our fancy for dinner tonight.  Just on the other side of the square is another fantastic viewing point that overlooks deeply set terraces.  This view takes you over to Ano Meria, the only other settlement on the island.  From here we can see runners zig zagging down the hillsides - the races have begun!  We spot runners at different points across the way - this must be the Angali Bend.  This is a perfect evening for running.  The sun is beginning to drop and there is a glorious breeze pushing in from the sea.


We think this is a good spot to watch the sunset and it isn't long before the sun begins to drop behind An0 Meria.  The terraces disappear into the darkness.  The sunset, the silence - the feeling that all is well in the world!

We walk back into one of the squares and decide to eat in Restaurant Chic.  Peter has goat in lemon sauce and I have lamb with almonds which is followed by apple pie and buscotina all washed down with lots of dry white wine.  During the meal we see small groups of people including families with children that have taken part in the Folegandros Chora Race - still in shorts and vest and wearing medals around their necks gathering around big tables in restaurants across the square to eat.  


After the meal we walk through the squares and down pretty alleyways where we find beautifully designed art and crafts shops.  We also come across tiny little cafe's that you may mistake for a little house during the day but seem to transform themselves into chic little bars in the evening.

As we walk back to Evgenia we can just see the top of Panagia Church lit up on the hillside, glowing like a beacon in the dark and in the foreground we can just make out an old windmill.  In front of us we see houses scattered on the hills overlooking the chora, sparkling like white jewels in the night.
 
Back on the balcony of our room we can see that Hotel Polikandia by night, really comes into its (Disney) own!


Peter talks about Egypt and the demonstrations that are expected over the next few days in Cairo.  His brother Michael has taken his mum to Cairo for medical treatment - our thoughts are with them. 


Monday 24th June 2013 - A day trip to Paros

By the time we went to bed last night we still hadn't decided how to spend our last day on Antiparos, so this morning what do we do?  We decide to go to Paros!  I remember how pretty the little fishing village of Naoussa was so I'm keen to see if it lives up to my memory of it.  

[There are two boats you can take between Paros and Antiparos: 

Parikia - Antiparos.  It takes about 30 minutes.  Parikia (Paroikia) is the main port.  The timetable may change throughout the season so this is only a guide.

Pounda - Antiparos.  This little car ferry shuttles back and forth across the short stretch between the two islands and takes 8 minutes.  However, you will need to take the bus between Parikia-Pounda - a 10-15 minute journey.  Both bus stops are literally a stones throw from the ports.  The advantage of the car ferry is that it runs until late at night - especially handy if you are arriving on a late ferry!!]

 As much as I enjoyed the journey over on the little car ferry (and eternally grateful to it for Friday!) we decide to catch the direct boat.  We take our place on the upper deck and take in the wonderful view of the port.  Over to the left are the port landmarks - the windmill and  and the blue domed church and over to the right the short stretch of whitewashed hotels and tavernas.  This view puts the size of the port, and indeed the island into context.  From the port there is one main street that leads up into the Chora and then further up into the Kastro - all a few minutes walk.

The short trip over to Paros allows us to take in some wonderful views of both islands and also the tiny, privately owned island of Revmatonisi.  A substantial whitewashed villa owned I believe by a shipping magnate, sits hidden behind a barrier of mature palm trees (jealous!).

The narrow straight between the two islands is very shallow and requires precise navigation.  It was an earthquake in around 550 BC that caused a piece of land to separate from Paros and this became the little island of Antiparos.  Signs of this volcanic activity is more evident as you pass the Northern tip of Antiparos where you can see a scattering of little islets spilling out into the sea.  The sea between Antiparos and the uninhabited islands of Kato Fira (Diplo) is so shallow you can wade from one to the other.  Beyond Diplo is Pano Fira and even further lies a rocky outcrop of small islets jutting out from the sea.  Perched on top of one of the larger islets we can see a whitewashed church.  As much as I've tried to Google, I can 't find anything that gives me the name of these islets or the name of the church - there is a reference on Google maps to Agios Spyridon but nothing else.

After 30 minutes, we arrive at Parikia which seems quieter at this time of day than it did in the early hours of the morning.  It is the case that within minutes of a large ferry coming into view, a port will suddenly burst into a hive of activity and then as quick as it came, the calm returns.

As we disembark from the boat (and this is the same on any boat or ferry arriving here) we see the little windmill/tourist office in the middle of the main road and to our right, the port cattle shed/waiting room.  We turn right and about 100 yards down is the small bus station.

[This video shows you where the bus station is in relation to the port.  The video starts just as we leave the port on the boat and just before the video ends you will see a stationery bus - this is the bus station.]

The bus to Naoussa is about to leave.  Peter purchases the tickets from the little office and we hop on board. We pass stretches of agricultural land that spill out from beneath low lying hills.   As the bus winds down towards the village of Naoussa I begin to remember exactly where we are.  The bus terminates adjacent to a row of shops behind which sits the marina.  However, first we are desperately in need of refreshment and stumble into a nearby cafe bar (who's name I unfortunately forget) for a tall glass of fresh lemon juice over crushed ice, garnished with a sprig of mint.

After a short respite from the heat we walk down to the small harbour, home to brightly painted fishing caiques that look resplendent against the whitewashed Venetian houses, many of which are now pretty little tavernas.  The remains of a small kastro and a short harbour wall encompass a number of bobbing fishing boats, a haven from the open sea beyond.  The church of the Assumption of the Virgin sits high on the hill dominating the skyline above the harbour.

The stone harbour wall invited us to walk down its length into the ruin of the partially sunken kastro.  A series of arches built into the thick defensive walls offer us framed vistas in which to appreciate this picture perfect scenery.

Peter climbs through one of the arches and walks out across a chain of rocks and takes a photograph looking back into the kastro.

We walked back along the harbour wall past fishermen preparing for the next day - some sitting on their boats, others sitting with their backs against a wall mending their nets.  Washing is strung across a line on one of the boats. The marina is absolutely teaming with fish.  We stroll amongst the pretty Venetian dwellings that have been reinvented as rather trendy eating establishments amongst which are highly rated seafood restaurants.

Before making our way back to the bus stop we stop to look at Agios Nikolaos in the harbour which also enables me to seek 10 minutes respite from the sun.  This small church is believed to be the protector of all fishing boats - and protector of the fair skinned!

Time is running fast.  This has been just a short whistle stop tour of Naoussa as Peter is keen to visit the monastery in Parikia so we walk slowly back to the bus stop.  A copy of the timetable is by the bus stop and we realise that we will have to wait nearly an hour for the next bus.

[When we arrived back at the bus stop we realised that for the return journey we need to walk about 200 yards towards a small bus station - continue walking in the direction of the bus when it arrives in Naoussa - the bus station is at the end of the street.]

We walk past another impressive looking church  and Peter goes inside whilst I rebind a sore blister with a bandage.


Just before we arrive at the bus station we pass a small place called Restaurant Pervolaria which advertises 'A Taverna in the Garden'.  A large pergola covered in hessian drapes and bougainvillea branches provide much needed shade.  We have decided to eat at T'Ageri back on Antiparos tonight so decide to opt for cheese and spinach pies and a cup of tea just to tide us over.  This is a nice family run taverna - the owners were very friendly and welcoming.  It's a little walk up from the centre of Naoussa and has very clean toilets.  A wonderful place to rest a while when you have time to kill.


The bus soon arrives and we return back the journey back to the port of Parikia.


Before we go to the monastery we decide to walk to the kastro through the winding streets of the chora - this is Cycladic architecture at its best - very typical and very pretty.


The Venitian kastro sits amongst the whitewashed cubist houses - an add looking structure at first glance but the reason becomes clear from our guide book which says:

[The Venetian Kastro (1260 AD) was largely constructed from the remains of the archaic Temples of Demeter and Apollo, remnants of which can  be see in the form of the circular column drums now embedded in the kastro wall.]


A little further around the corner we pass the church Agios Konstantinos - I say Agios Konstantinos - I've tried to research what the name of this church is and trying to match photographs of this church with references to it being next to the kastro brings up three option - St Konstantinos, Holy Mary Septemvriani and St Eleni.  Information on the internet and my guide books are confused so my best guess is that it is St Konstantinos!

Regardless of name, this church is so picturesque, adorned with the famous Parian marble and overlooking the harbour - it's the things that postcards are made of (except if I'm in the picture of course!).


Now it's time to go to the Byzantine monastery that Peter wants to see - Panagia Ekatontapyliani - try saying that when you've had a few ouzo's!  

Also called Katapoliani, it is said to be one of the most important early Christian monuments in Greece and also known as Our Lady of the 100 Doors.  According to www.hotels.line.gr:

["The temple owes its name to its 100 gates, 99 of which are visible and the hundredth will be revealed when the Greeks will recapture Constantinople, as it is said.
The Katapoliani, probably derived from the term "Katapola" meaning "in town", probably indicating the location of the ancient city of Paros. 

Its construction, according to tradition, must be started in the 4th century by St Helena, the mother of Saint Constantine, who made a vow that if she found the Holy Cross, she would build a church at the location of a small temple she had found when she stopped in Paros throughout her journey to find the cross. Then, after she carried out the purpose of her trip, she fulfilled her promise."]

We walk into a large paved courtyard.  To our left is a shaded area with a metal framed pergola and a tree bursting with ripe lemons.  Towering above this is a tall tree with spreading boughs on which hang two church bells.  

The large wooden doors of the church invite us in.  We are almost alone - only another couple and a cleaning lady when we enter.  We all stand in awe, taking in the magnificence of this church, except the cleaning lady who is vigorously polishing each icon. Before moving onto the next icon she kisses the cleansed (and sterilised) icon and crosses herself three times - a well deserved perk of the job!

Peter also visits the icons, showing his respect to God in a much more covert way.  I would describe myself as an Athiest with Agnostic tendencies - I don't really believe in God but at the same time if I was given a conclusive sign that he/she existed might be convinced.  Maybe that's a sign of getting older and the realisation of my own mortality!  When I consider the magnificent world we live in - the sheer miracle of nature - I do become a little more tempted to believe.  I love churches and the absolute feeling of tranquillity and peace that washes over you - a haven from the outside world - saying that, my local garden centre has the same effect on me too!


Within the monastery complex, housed in some of the cells is the Byzantine Museum - we are not allowed to take photographs inside but this web link gives an overview of some of the exhibits.  There is an amazing wooden, carved model of the monastery and also one handmade from wire - very intricate and quite exquisite.


It is now time to make our way back to the harbour for the boat back to Antiparos.  There is so much to see and do on Paros that I feel as though we have only just dipped our toes into what the island has to offer.  I would love to have visited Butterfly Valley - especially as it was the right time of year.  Also the Ancient Salt Mines and maybe have walked the Byzantine Trail.  However, this is one of the few downsides to island hopping - sometimes you only get a snapshot of the island - but then again - it does leave you wanting for more!

When we arrive back at the port the boat Antiparos is coming down the straight.  Tourists who have probably visited Antiparos for the day disembark, then we board.  There are only a handful of us on board for the return journey.  We sail along the shores of Paros until we turn out into the middle of the straight, passing cormorants on rocks jutting out from the sea.


Before we end our day on Paros - just a little bit of Greek Mythology

We arrive back at the port of Antiparos.  As much as my body is crying out to throw itself into the sea to refresh itself, we decide to go straight back to the room to shower and get ready to go out.  Before we go for our last meal on the island at Restaurant T'ageri, we want to visit the kastro which is just a short walk from Villa Harmonia.  

Although this is the beginning of high season, the kastro is virtually deserted.  The early evening sun casts a warm glow over the stone dwellings.  Once newly whitewashed and painted with brightly coloured windows, doors and balconies, wind, sun and age has added to its visual appeal, by adorning it with the patina of  time.   

 We're so hungry after having refrained from eating anything substantial at lunch time - we are more than ready to eat now.  We head straight for T'ageri.  It isn't very busy tonight but this we don't mind.  As soon as I walk in, a lady in a bright pink dress, pink sandals and a pink flower in her hair, points to my camera and tells me that it is going to be a good moon tonight.  After taking our seats at a table overlooking the harbour, the lady asks me questions about my camera and also shows me photographs of the moon that she took the night before.

As we continue to talk she tells us that her daughter works for the diving school next door and that she is staying with her on Antiparos for three months.  The lady also tells us that she is French but lives in Derbyshire.  She bought her husband the camera for his birthday - though I'm not sure how much he has been able to use it yet!

She tells us a lot about hereself - through her fathers job she had travelled extensively around the world as a child.  Her husband works for an airline and they had at one time lived in Nigeria.  In between conversations about photography (at times it turns into a photography lesson) we order our meal.  I don't think Peter wants to spend so much time wrestling with his food tonight and also we are spoilt for choice on the menu.  We decide to order a mixture of things including octopus, zucchini fritters, aubergine salad, local cheese and a Greek salad - there may have been more but we were somewhat distracted - though not unpleasantly so.

 Giorgios comes from the kitchen to ask as how we have enjoyed our meal and explains to us the meaning of the word T'ageri.  "It is like the feeling of the wind on your face" he tells us.  Giorgios brings us out desert which is absolutely amazing.  Choux pastries filled with a banana cream (they were much more than this and my description doesn't do them justice at all) - Giorgios tells us how he makes them and I really admire his passion for good food.   Take a look at their menu and you will see that this is no ordinary Greek Taverna!

http://www.tageri.com/p/menu.html

Maria and the owners, the French lady, Peter and I chat convivially into the evening.  So far there is no sign of this perfect moon - we are waiting in anticipation with our cameras on standby.  I'm sure this time last night the moon was already shining over the harbour.  We wonder if it is hidden by clouds we can't see in the night sky - not the case because we can see the stars.  

"Look!" the French lady shouts, pointing in the direction of Paros.  As we turn, we see the moon beginning to peak out over the top of a low mountain across the sea.  Everyone makes a grab for their cameras.  A crowd has already begun to gather along the harbour wall to witness this magnificent spectacle.  

I had left my travel tripod in Egypt so in the absence of a tripod we take turns in balancing our cameras on top of upturned ice buckets.  Photos are still a little blurry (Note to myself - buy another lightweight tripod before our next trip) - I don't want to mess up another photo opportunity like this again!


This is a great end to our stay on Antiparos.  We give our thanks to Giorgios and Maria and say goodbye to Mr and Mrs Eugenidis and the French lady.  We walk past the marina, the moon illuminating the small boats moored up to the harbour wall.  I think of the meaning of T'ageri and the line written inside the menu:

‘’Take us far away, take us away to distant places, blow open sea, blow sea breeze…!’’

‘’Να μας πάρεις μακριά να μας πας σε πέρα μέρηφύσα θάλασσα πλατιάφύσα αγέρι φύσα αγέρι..!’’


Saturday 22nd June 2013 - Antiparos - You Haven't Changed a Bit!

We wake up at 9am after just 6 hours sleep, relieved to be here on the beautiful island of Antiparos.  Our eagerness to go and explore outweighed any exhaustion we still felt.  We showered and flung on some clothes and as we left the room took time to appreciate the pretty little terrace outside our room - Pimms and lemonade tonight I think!

We took the short walk back to the little main street. Everywhere is quiet and the streets were still quite empty.  One of the first cafe's we spotted was a small place called Cafe Babel.  The lady who seemed to own the cafe, took our order in between tending a small baby.   I think both Peter and I were in need of sustenance so we ordered a breakfast of fried eggs and bacon with toasted bread and tea.  Within minutes an older lady appeared to take over the kitchen duties.  When breakfast arrived the eggs really were the most perfect ones I'd ever seen or tasted!  

I had a strong urge to visit Psaraliki Beach of which I had such fond memories.  I remember it was a short walk from the town but instead of taking the direct route we decided to walk further up into the town and access it from over the main road. The beach was exactly how I remembered it.  A narrow stretch of sand and small stones, curving around the sheltered bay, lined with a row of tamarisk trees. It's parent island Paros providing shelter and keeping the shallow waters warm.  I get the feeling that today is going to be a very lazy day.  

We spread out our towels and lay under a tamarisk tree which covers us in its dappled shade.  The branches dance in the gentle breeze, fanning us slowly to sleep.  The hypnotic sound of the waves rolling in and out and the sound of the rustling leaves were broken periodically by the sound of shrill chirping from cicadas.

Between short bouts of sleep we took occasional dips in the sea, the beach gently shelving into deep turquoise water.  The most activity we experienced was a swim over to rocks at the end of the beach - Peter snorkelling whilst I clambered between the rocks under which green crabs scuttled to seek shelter.

We stayed  on the beach until about 5pm and then we walked back to the port past the old windmill and the blue domed church.


Not wishing to be caught out again we decided to purchase our tickets for Folegandros and made our way to the nearest ticket office.  We had planned to spend 4 nights on Antiparos, leaving on Tuesday - the end of the festival.  The tickets were 10 Euros each for the Speedrunner high speed ferry.  The lady in the ticket office tells us that today is the festival of the boats.  Later on I try to find some more information on this festival but can't seem to find a reference to it anywhere.  Anyway,I 'm not sure what the 'boat festival' is but there is certainly a lot of activity down by the marina.  A number of boats have been arriving at the island throughout the day,  There are gazebo's along the marina - whatever it is seems to be sponsored by Viper and we also see a poster with the picture of a musician on it promoting an event this evening in the square.  We are told this is part of the boat festival - oh to be able to read Greek!


After a walk along the marina we return to the room for a shower and Pimms and lemonade on our tiny terrace under the Bougainvillea canopy.


Still tired from the travel yesterday the Pimms nearly wipes us out. We force ourselves to get ready and head back to the marina to find a restaurant to eat. The marina is full of life. Families and groups of young people sitting in cafes or promenading along the harbour.  We can see rows of chairs stacked up against the church wall in the square, ready to be set out for the music event later that night.  I like to think that I can stay awake that long!  As we walk to the end of the marina it begins to feel less populated.  We survey the row of restaurants but it is difficult to choose which one.  We eventually decide on Restaurant T'ageri in the corner.  A pretty little spot overlooking the end of the small marina.



We really chose well.  This restaurant more than exceeded our expectations.   The waitress Maria introduces herself to us and asks us where we are from.  She tells us that she has been to Cairo and liked it very much - we both agreed that we didn't really like Alexandria.  Peter was keen to have sea food and chose crab. I didn't have much of an appetite and chose meatballs  - I think I know who's looked most impressive!  This was all washed down by a glass of cold, crisp dry white wine.  I think I had a second glass whilst Peter concentrated on extracting the crab meat out of the shell.


Maria told us that she was from Patras, opposite the coast of Italy. Giorgios the chef and the owners were also from there.  This is only their second season in Antiparos and they tell us that it hasn't been easy.  Giorgios told us that because they weren't locals, the council hadn't  been very helpful.  He said that some pipework repairs had been carried out outside the restaurant over the last few days and this had left a lot of mud all over the road.  He had phoned the council a number of times asking them to clean up the road because it looked bad for the restaurant.  In the end he did it himself by hosing down the street and cleaning the mud away with a stiff brush - he wanted to make it better for the customers!

Giorgios goes on to tell us about how hard they have worked to develop a very special menu in the restaurant.  He wanted us to try his crab salad and brought us out a sample - I'm not a lover of seafood but this crab salad was absolutely fantastic. He spoke passionately about how he loved his kitchen and every day he cleaned every part of it down with oil. We ordered desert - a local dish with a sponge base and fruit jelly topping.  My description here hasn't done it justice but the food here is absolutely exceptional! Everyone here has been friendly and accommodating and we will definitely be back another night.

We decide to walk back along the marina to see what's happening in the square.  The little marina is so pretty at night.


The show is now in full swing and gregarious Greeks are dancing and singing along with the musicians on the stage.  A man fills a endless plastic cups with water and hands them out amongst the crowd.  Above the small stage, children sit with their legs dangling over the church wall to get a birdseye view of the entertainment.  


After the musicians have delivered a couple of numbers, a group of men get on stage to make a series of announcements which is met with warm applause.  The night is rounded off with a final piece from the musicians and a small firework display which we see burst into life from behind the village church.  I've enjoyed this mysterious 'boat festival!'

Friday 21st June 2013 - Manchester to Athens and on to Antiparos via Paros (We Hope!)

The alarm goes of at 4.00am.  We have less than an hour to get ready, close the suitcases and get to the airport.  I've been looking forward to this trip for such a long time and the early wake up call doesn't phase us.  Louis stayed overnight so that he could drive us to the airport.  I think ahead to the itinerary and the connections we have to make to get to Antiparos that night and quickly check that the flight is on time.  Yes - so far so good.  We should land in Athens shortly after lunchtime and we've decided to travel to the port of Piraeus by bus which runs hourly and takes about 50 minutes.  A ferry is scheduled to leave Piraeus at 17.30 arriving in Paros at 22.30.  We then have to catch the bus from the port at Paroikia to the small port of Pounda and from there the last little car ferry over to Antiparos - simple!

Manchester Airport is rammed - even Speedy boarding doesn't seem to moving very fast.  The queues are long but we look forward to checking in with Easyjet using the smartphone app that is being trialled.  It works fine but we still had to print out paper tickets for the flight home.  More long queues but once we are through passport control we have time for a quick mooch and to make the special purchase of a bottle of the new Blackberry and Elderflower Pimms!

The flight over to Athens was fine.  Tiredness was beginning to creep up on us both - Peter slept a little, but I never can on planes or any other form of public transport.  Eventually we are flying over Greece and we catch our first sight of the stunning turquoise sea.

We fly over the coast and inland, past a deeply riven quarry cut out of the hillside and over a busy motorway.  I can see large expanses of olive groves around town settlements and the haze coming from the land indicates the heat of the midday is in full force.

As we approach Athens Airport the captain announces that there is a little turbulence - nothing too unsettling though.  The plane begins to make its rather wobbly descent towards the runway.  It looks as though we are going to touch down but before we know it the engine volume increases rapidly and we are taking off again.  The captain tells us that he didn't like the look of the landing so he would attempt it again and hopefully the wind will have dropped by the time we've completed the circuit again.

Around we go over a range of mountains and after about 10 or 15 minutes we see the quarry and the motorway again.  This time we land without any wobbles.

After exiting the plane we have rather a long walk through the terminal building - as in most cases with an Easyjet flight.  At least we've landed more or less on time and we have plenty of time to get over to Piraeus.

[Exit the terminal building at the arrivals level between Exit 4 and Exit 5 (B).  Turn right and 20 yards or so down you will see the bus stop.  Next to the bus stop you will see a cabin selling tickets - you must purchase your tickets beforehand.  It costs 5 Euros each and the X96 to Piraeus runs hourly. (the timetable on the net says every 30 mins but the information at the airport said hourly.  The journey is about 50 minutes.   http://www.athensairporttaxi.com/en/athens_topiraeus_en.htm ]

The bus was very busy and we ended up standing all the way. It wasn't a particularly comfortable journey as a number of people had left their luggage by the doorway unattended.  Everytime the bus swerved around a corner the luggage slid across the floor towards us and pinned us up against the doors which did open periodically when arriving at a destination.  An Italian tourist also being swept along by the deluge of luggage told me " Molto difficile". Yes, - molto difficile - but not for the two families (the owners of the luggage) who had sprawled themselves across a number of seats to sleep instead of offering them up to others!

The standing and the constant battle with other people's luggage hadn't stressed me out but the lack of consideration from others had.  I had to remind myself that I was now on holiday and had to make a concerted effort to go with the flow!

[If you have a smart phone or other mobile device, it's useful to download a GPS app that doesn't require a wireless connection.  I'm a big fan of Evernote which enabled me to download lots of information such as ferry and bus timetables - a premium membership which is really cheap and can be purchased by the month, enables you to access this information offline.  One of the other Evernote apps is a utility called Skitch.  With this I could see exactly where we were and knew when we had arrived at Piraeus.

When you get off the bus, cross the road and bare left a little - look for the statue of General Karaiskakis, hero of the Greek Revolution of 1821.  Behind this you will find a number of ticket offices and cafes and restaurants along with entrances to the ferry terminals]

We make our way to the first ticket office we can see which is a Blue Star Ferries office.  There isn't much of a queue and after 10 minutes we are asking for tickets for the 17.30 ferry to Paros.  "Not available".  I was a bit stunned as the Blue Star Paros is a huge ship and it isn't yet high season. We tell him that we need to be in Antiparos tonight as we have a room booked - hoping he would show sympathy and summon up a miracle!  "Absolutely full.  I even don't have cancellation for the 21.00 boat."  I still couldn't believe that the ferry was full and tell Peter we will go elsewhere and see what we can find.  

I didn't expect this at all.  The Blue Star Paros is moored right next to us and I can't quite comprehend how a ship this size is fully booked.  I haven't yet acclimatised to the searing midday heat and we decide that I will stay with the luggage under the shade of a tree whilst Peter goes to the other ticket agencies to see if there are any cancellations.  After about 20 minutes he returns and tells me that the ferries are all booked as it is a Greek national holiday and every Athenian is escaping to the islands today until Tuesday.  This is such an oversight on my part after all the years I've been coming to the Greek Islands!  One of the travel agencies has told Peter that they have a couple of cancellations for the 21.00 ferry tonight.  This means that we will arrive at Paros at 1.00am and from what I knew the ferry to Antiparos only runs until about midnight.  However, even if we had to stay on Paros for the night, it would only be an 8 minute ride across in the morning - best to be in Paros than in Piraeus!

Before we commit ourselves we decide to see if there are any cancellations for the Blue Star Paros.  Seeing the Blue Star Paros again after so many years is like seeing an old friend.  It may sound rather peculiar having such a fond attachment to a ship but it is hard to describe the feeling when you catch sight of a ship that you have travelled on in the past.  They come in all shapes and sizes and can be spotted along the same routes year after year.  Maybe it's to do with being born in a port myself.  There is something really fascinating about sea travel - even observing ships from land fills me with excitement and wonderment - arriving at an island by boat - even more so!

There is a small kiosk right on the ferry terminal by the Blue Star Paros.  There is quite a queue and Peter eventually gets the opportunity to ask if there have been any cancellations.  None at this moment in time.  We go back periodically over the next hour or so and watch lorries, cars and passengers (predominantly Greek) board the boat.  I notice a small group of tourists who have been waiting by the entrance to the boat - it becomes clear that they are trying to get seats by speaking to the Blue Star Ferry staff directly - but to no avail.

It's hot  and we're tired and hungry and I slowly realise that we don't stand a chance of getting on the Blue Star Paros.  We decide to go back to the ticket office and buy the tickets for the Blue Star Ithaki that leaves at 21.00 - this must have been an extra boat as I don't remember seeing this on the timetable.  We go back to the office where they had told Peter that they had  some cancellations.  The same lady now tells us that they only have first class accommodation tickets left - I can't remember the price but they were at least double the cost of the economy tickets.  We told her that it was just too expensive for us but we really needed to get to Paros that night.  After poking her keyboard a few times she tells us that she had just found a couple of cancellations for economy!  I don't blame her for trying!

We buy the tickets at 32.5 Euros each and then contemplate how we are going to spend nearly 5 hours in Piraeus.  We are told we can board the ship from 20.00 so that's not as bad.  We decide to go and eat in one of the restaurants in the port.  We find a table outside and have a meal of stuffed tomatoes for me and chicken souvlaki for Peter.  We stretch out the time as long as we can until, over Peter's shoulder I catch sight of the Blue Star Paros moving slowly out of the port.  I could have cried!

Peter is keen to explore Piraeus but it is too hot for me - no so for an Egyptian!  First of all we find a small office between the ticket agencies where we can leave all of our luggage for the price of 6 euros - well worth the money.  We decide to stay around the port, stopping occasionally for a drink in a cafe and use of the free wifi.  There are a few teams of young people giving out free samples - we are given samples of Oral B Pro Toothpaste and some odd little snacks called Fonzies.  The port is huge.  The cafe's and ticket offices are surrounded by a one way system where cars and taxis enter and exit the port.  Trying to cross the road when a ferry has just arrived or is about leave is very difficult.  Now there is a real lull and the port is very quiet.  There is an air conditioned port waiting room where we sit for a while but we are restless and keep moving to different spots around the port hoping the time will pass more quickly. I think we try 3 or 4 different cafes during our wait.  It is whilst we are sitting in the last cafe that we see another large Blue Star ferry enter the harbour - without getting out of my seat I can see it is the Blue Star Ithaki.  Thank God!

We know there is no rush to get to the ferry but the opportunity to observe some of the frenetic activity that takes place during the loading and unloading of ferries is a greatly appreciated distraction.

As soon as we can we board.

We enter the foot passenger entrance, show our ticket and walk to the side of the car deck where we place our luggage in a storage rack. We take the escalators up to the middle deck and find a table and chairs near the back of the ferry.  This gives us excellent views of the action down below.

There appears to be a very intricate system if loading and unloading lorries, cars and boats. As huge juggernauts disembark, a queue of lorries, cars and motorbikes simultaneously enter.  Amidst lots of shouting and very animated arm waving, the traffic seems to converge into the same space but at the last minute vehicles glide slowly away - a bit like a juggernaut ballet.  I don't know what the capacity is on a ferry this size but the continuous uploading of reversing vehicles seems to continue for over an hour.  Peter tells me that one lorry continually enters the ship, offloads its goods, exits the ferry and then returns with another load of cargo several times.  All manner of supplies are being distributed out to the islands.  Even the foot passengers are carrying ice boxes, goods wrapped up in tight bundles and plastic bags bursting at the seams. The passengers are predominantly Greek - it seems that everyone from Athens is escaping to the islands - a sense of 'school is out'. It really is a fascinating spectacle.  I remember when arriving at the port of Symi seeing a family escorting a coffin on board.  It gives you a sense of how invaluable the ferry service is to islanders.  Someone is towing a large speedboat with a 4 x 4 which seems to have broken down by the harbour wall - a taxi driver seems to be offering assistance along with other passing passengers.  We've got our seats and a cup of tea which I seem to savour a lot more knowing that we will be on Paros tonight.  We settle down to watch this amazing real life soap opera!

There is a large electronic noticeboard that indicates that around 6 ships will be leaving Piraeus around the same time.  Despite the frenetic activity, shouting and frantic arm waving the Blue Star Ithaki leaves at 21.00 exactly.  This is a very well rehearsed stage show and I don't for one minute underestimate the skill it takes to manage the logistics of this operation.

We sail slowly out of the harbour as the sun sets which slowly transcends itself into dusk.  We see the lights of Piraeus for a long time and also the outline of the other 5 ships that also departed from the port, now diverging off onto their own separate routes. I love travelling on the deck - I'd much rather be outside than in the enclosed salon.  Also sitting out on the deck are two groups of young men - one who has a loud, shrill laugh like a hyena.  We are joined by a couple of middle aged men who occasionally exchange sentences with each other but mostly just look out to sea whilst swinging their worry beads or komboloi.  Worry seems an inappropriate description - I think contemplation beads works better.  I wonder what they are thinking and whether I could relate to whatever it is that's in their mind.


Children walk to the safety rail tentatively. It reminds me of a recurring dream I used to have as a child. We used to make the journey from Dover to Calais quite frequently to visit friends of my parents in Italy.  Although my sister would only have been a babe-in-arms when we made these journey's, I had a recurring dream for many years that as we were standing on the deck of the ferry I saw her slip between the bars of the railings.  Despite trying to grab her I couldn't - and that's where the dream ended.  I don't think we ever stood on the deck of the ferry as children so not sure where that image came from!

The group of young men are now playing cards so there are periods of concentrated silence broken by shrieks from the hyena which breaks the peace. Peter is sitting next to the older men, silent and pensive. I smile as I remember how every time we come to Greece, he always finds examples of how the Greeks and the Egyptians are similar including the language, the food (Mousakka is an Egyptian dish not Greek!  Baklava/Baklawa etc).


Seagulls swoop and follow in the wake of the ship. I close my eyes and notice that the sound of the water churned over by the ship sounds like a waterfall.  All that remains of Piraeus is a row of twinkling orange and white lights. The rumble of the engine vibrates throughout the ship - reassuring, strong, solid and stable.  The smell of the diesel fuel is familiar and comforting.  I think back to a time many years ago when I was on an overnight ferry back to Athens - another large ferry like the Blue Star Paros.  I was tired and there was nowhere to sit - it was too cold outside so I spread out my towel on the floor in a corridor and managed to rest my eyes for a little while -  that probably wouldn't be allowed nowadays.  I could hear and feel the rumbling of the engine through my face but in some odd way I liked it - safe in the arms of the gentle giant.

I can just about make out the silhouette of the mountains of western Greece that are now tinged with a lilac pink and red halo.  The air is balmy with a gentle welcome breeze.  We've been out at sea for an hour now and before long it is pitch black.  I feel what I first think is spots of rain, but later realise when I lick my face, that it is just spots of salty sea spray.  We can still see land either side of us which makes me feel safe.  Again - I don't know if this goes back to my childhood but being out in the deep sea at night is another nightmare!

Occasionally we pass another ferry like familiar friends. Throughout the journey a series of passengers come to the rail to smoke.  Ash blows back over the table and us - by the end of the journey my black trousers are covered in light grey ash.  The moon is not quite full but bright and highlights the waves which are becoming bigger.  The gentle undulating swells are hypnotic and highlight how tired I am.  The ferry journey is longer than the flight and the journey isn't over yet.  The wind is picking up a little and the sea spray quickly dries on my trousers leaving them a little crispy!

I occasionally look at Skitch to get an indication where we are.  We have just skirted around the bottom of Kythnos and the top of Serifos and are now headed on a straight course for Paros. 


It suddenly dawns on me that I should let Giorgios - the owner of Villa Harmonia know that we won't be able to make it over to Antiparos tonight.  Peter and I had already debated whether to get a room for the night in Paros or just stay up until the boat comes in the morning - we still hadn't decided what to do.   I send Giorgios a text message to explain our dilemma.  Within 10 minutes he has sent me another text back to say that an extra boat has been laid on from Pounda that leaves at 1.30am.  All we need to do is get a taxi from Paroikia to Pounda as soon as we get off the ferry.  We will make it to Antiparos after all!  Fantastic!

An announcement is made on the tannoy, in Greek and then in English that we are shortly to arrive at Paros.  We make our way through the salon which looks like a youth club.  There are large groups of young people playing games - some organised some not. Everyone seems oblivious to a screaming child being held by it's father - I see these are the same two families that had spread themselves out over the bus and left their luggage to slide up and down the aisle.  It's been a long day for us - I don't think I'd inflict this kind of journey on young children.  

People are queuing on the stairs already and the boat feels like it is beginning to dance -   you are more aware of this in the salon as opposed to out on the deck.   Eventually we get to the bottom of the stairs and make our way to the side of the car deck to retrieve our luggage.  We know that we need to make a mad dash to find a taxi and bomb it over to Pounda.  We wait on the car deck as the ferry reverses towards the harbour wall.  The door to the ferry deck slowly lowers - this is one of the most exciting parts of ferry travel - as the door lowers your anticipation of what the new island has in store for you increases.  We are like greyhounds waiting to be released from the trap.  
Everyone is jostling for position.  I take the opportunity to tell Peter who is such the gentleman when it comes to allowing other people to go first, that we are now in Greece and it's every man for himself!

We pile off the ferry. The first thing we see is the windmill in the middle of the square.  The road is lined with about 15 taxi's.  We approach them one by one but it becomes clear quite quickly that all of the taxi's are already booked up - obviously by those that are in the know!  We try to beg for mercy and appeal to the kind nature of various taxi drivers.  This is just met with a shrug of indiffernce and I an feel my blood begin to boil.  Just as our hopes of getting to Antiparos are raised again, they are quickly dashed knowing that we won't make the ferry after all - it is now 1.30am and the ferry is due to depart and we need to get over to Pounda to catch it - about a 15 minute journey.

The only thing I can think to do is to send another text message to Giorgios to tell him that it is impossible to get a taxi so it looks like we won't make the ferry.  

Shortly afterwards my phone rings - it's Giorgios.  He tells me that an extra bus has been laid on from Paroikia to Pounda and that he's only just been told about it.  He tells us that if we turn right at the windmill and walk for about 100 yards we will see the bus station.  He will tell the ferry captain to wait for us (seems odd but these are small islands).

We don't recognise the bus station as a bus station - it really is a small office with a parking space outside but we do see the bus who's engines are already running and ready to depart.  We buy our tickets - 2 euros each.  As we take our seats I don't think I have ever breathed such a big sigh of relief!

We make our way down dark roads and after about 15 minutes arrive at the tiny ferry stop at Pounda.  The small car ferry is waiting.  Before I get chance to get my barings a blonde haired man walks towards me, says my name and shakes my hand - It's Giorgios who has obviously identified me as the only non Greek here (OK so Peter may sometimes pass for a Greek!)

It takes about 8 minutes to make the short trip over to Antiparos.  I can already see the windmill and the little blue domed church by the village square next to the harbour wall.  At a guess It has been about 12 years since I last visited Antiparos - my third visit in total as it definitely features as one of my top 5 Greek islands.  It doesn't seem to have changed at all.

We walk up the main street from the harbour.  We get a sense that the small bars have recently closed for the night, a few stragglers still making their way home.  Giorgios shouts to one of the bar owners and grabs a large bottle of water for us.  We turn off right past pretty whitewashed villas until we come to Villa Harmonia.

It is now nearly 3.00am in the morning and it has been almost 24 hours since we awoke for our journey.

What a day.  We're so glad that we eventually made it to the beautiful little island of Antiparos!