By the time we went to bed last night we still hadn't decided how to spend our last day on Antiparos, so this morning what do we do? We decide to go to Paros! I remember how pretty the little fishing village of Naoussa was so I'm keen to see if it lives up to my memory of it.
[There are two boats you can take between Paros and Antiparos:
Parikia - Antiparos. It takes about 30 minutes. Parikia (Paroikia) is the main port. The timetable may change throughout the season so this is only a guide.
Pounda - Antiparos. This little car ferry shuttles back and forth across the short stretch between the two islands and takes 8 minutes. However, you will need to take the bus between Parikia-Pounda - a 10-15 minute journey. Both bus stops are literally a stones throw from the ports. The advantage of the car ferry is that it runs until late at night - especially handy if you are arriving on a late ferry!!]
As much as I enjoyed the journey over on the little car ferry (and eternally grateful to it for Friday!) we decide to catch the direct boat. We take our place on the upper deck and take in the wonderful view of the port. Over to the left are the port landmarks - the windmill and and the blue domed church and over to the right the short stretch of whitewashed hotels and tavernas. This view puts the size of the port, and indeed the island into context. From the port there is one main street that leads up into the Chora and then further up into the Kastro - all a few minutes walk.
The short trip over to Paros allows us to take in some wonderful views of both islands and also the tiny, privately owned island of Revmatonisi. A substantial whitewashed villa owned I believe by a shipping magnate, sits hidden behind a barrier of mature palm trees (jealous!).
The narrow straight between the two islands is very shallow and requires precise navigation. It was an earthquake in around 550 BC that caused a piece of land to separate from Paros and this became the little island of Antiparos. Signs of this volcanic activity is more evident as you pass the Northern tip of Antiparos where you can see a scattering of little islets spilling out into the sea. The sea between Antiparos and the uninhabited islands of Kato Fira (Diplo) is so shallow you can wade from one to the other. Beyond Diplo is Pano Fira and even further lies a rocky outcrop of small islets jutting out from the sea. Perched on top of one of the larger islets we can see a whitewashed church. As much as I've tried to Google, I can 't find anything that gives me the name of these islets or the name of the church - there is a reference on Google maps to Agios Spyridon but nothing else.
After 30 minutes, we arrive at Parikia which seems quieter at this time of day than it did in the early hours of the morning. It is the case that within minutes of a large ferry coming into view, a port will suddenly burst into a hive of activity and then as quick as it came, the calm returns.
As we disembark from the boat (and this is the same on any boat or ferry arriving here) we see the little windmill/tourist office in the middle of the main road and to our right, the port cattle shed/waiting room. We turn right and about 100 yards down is the small bus station.
[This video shows you where the bus station is in relation to the port. The video starts just as we leave the port on the boat and just before the video ends you will see a stationery bus - this is the bus station.]
The bus to Naoussa is about to leave. Peter purchases the tickets from the little office and we hop on board. We pass stretches of agricultural land that spill out from beneath low lying hills. As the bus winds down towards the village of Naoussa I begin to remember exactly where we are. The bus terminates adjacent to a row of shops behind which sits the marina. However, first we are desperately in need of refreshment and stumble into a nearby cafe bar (who's name I unfortunately forget) for a tall glass of fresh lemon juice over crushed ice, garnished with a sprig of mint.
After a short respite from the heat we walk down to the small harbour, home to brightly painted fishing caiques that look resplendent against the whitewashed Venetian houses, many of which are now pretty little tavernas. The remains of a small kastro and a short harbour wall encompass a number of bobbing fishing boats, a haven from the open sea beyond. The church of the Assumption of the Virgin sits high on the hill dominating the skyline above the harbour.
The stone harbour wall invited us to walk down its length into the ruin of the partially sunken kastro. A series of arches built into the thick defensive walls offer us framed vistas in which to appreciate this picture perfect scenery.
Peter climbs through one of the arches and walks out across a chain of rocks and takes a photograph looking back into the kastro.
We walked back along the harbour wall past fishermen preparing for the next day - some sitting on their boats, others sitting with their backs against a wall mending their nets. Washing is strung across a line on one of the boats. The marina is absolutely teaming with fish. We stroll amongst the pretty Venetian dwellings that have been reinvented as rather trendy eating establishments amongst which are highly rated seafood restaurants.
Before making our way back to the bus stop we stop to look at Agios Nikolaos in the harbour which also enables me to seek 10 minutes respite from the sun. This small church is believed to be the protector of all fishing boats - and protector of the fair skinned!
Its construction, according to tradition, must be started in the 4th century by St Helena, the mother of Saint Constantine, who made a vow that if she found the Holy Cross, she would build a church at the location of a small temple she had found when she stopped in Paros throughout her journey to find the cross. Then, after she carried out the purpose of her trip, she fulfilled her promise."]
Although this is the beginning of high season, the kastro is virtually deserted. The early evening sun casts a warm glow over the stone dwellings. Once newly whitewashed and painted with brightly coloured windows, doors and balconies, wind, sun and age has added to its visual appeal, by adorning it with the patina of time.
We're so hungry after having refrained from eating anything substantial at lunch time - we are more than ready to eat now. We head straight for T'ageri. It isn't very busy tonight but this we don't mind. As soon as I walk in, a lady in a bright pink dress, pink sandals and a pink flower in her hair, points to my camera and tells me that it is going to be a good moon tonight. After taking our seats at a table overlooking the harbour, the lady asks me questions about my camera and also shows me photographs of the moon that she took the night before.
As we continue to talk she tells us that her daughter works for the diving school next door and that she is staying with her on Antiparos for three months. The lady also tells us that she is French but lives in Derbyshire. She bought her husband the camera for his birthday - though I'm not sure how much he has been able to use it yet!
She tells us a lot about hereself - through her fathers job she had travelled extensively around the world as a child. Her husband works for an airline and they had at one time lived in Nigeria. In between conversations about photography (at times it turns into a photography lesson) we order our meal. I don't think Peter wants to spend so much time wrestling with his food tonight and also we are spoilt for choice on the menu. We decide to order a mixture of things including octopus, zucchini fritters, aubergine salad, local cheese and a Greek salad - there may have been more but we were somewhat distracted - though not unpleasantly so.
Giorgios comes from the kitchen to ask as how we have enjoyed our meal and explains to us the meaning of the word T'ageri. "It is like the feeling of the wind on your face" he tells us. Giorgios brings us out desert which is absolutely amazing. Choux pastries filled with a banana cream (they were much more than this and my description doesn't do them justice at all) - Giorgios tells us how he makes them and I really admire his passion for good food. Take a look at their menu and you will see that this is no ordinary Greek Taverna!
http://www.tageri.com/p/menu.html
