A Greek Oddity

Posts for Tag: Greek Islands

Wednesday 3rd July 2013 - Arrival at Athens - and What a View!

The Speedrunner 3 is a high speed catamaran - the downside being that a small outside deck is only available to those in the first class salon.  However, it is very spacious and comfortable in economy  and I have a window seat and there is access to a small cafe for tea and pastries.

Despite being confined to a fixed seat, the journey is enjoyable, not too packed and plenty of opportunity for people watching - mainly Greek families returning to Athens from the islands.

Through the salt stained windows we take in the last remaining views of the islands and then eventually the mainland.  As we approach Piraeus, in the distance sitting on the shoreline we make out the distinctive outline of the Peace and Friendship Stadium.

Jutting out of the city skyline is Lycabettus Hill, nearly 1000 feet high limestone rock and the highest hill in Athens.  Legend has it that Lycabettus was once inhabited by wolves - hence the name meaning mountain of wolves.

We sail past huge cruise liners and eventually into Piraeus port.  Our old friend Blue Star Paros is moored at the quayside awaiting her next trip out to the islands.

Once we have disembarked, we make our way over to the Metro station which is 5 minute’s walk from the port.

This is the view of the port where we boarded and disembarked at Gate E7 (Departures for the Eastern Cyclades).  

Turn left out of the port and keep walking until you reach the link bridge that takes you over the main road right down to the entrance of the metro station on your left.

 View of the port from the link bridge - Blue Staros Poros in port.  You can see how close the metro is to the port.

View over the main road from the link bridge

Walking across the link bridge

Metro station at Piraeus

Inside Piraeus Metro station

 As you walk into the metro station the ticket counter is on your right.  We are going to Monastiraki which is the green line and takes less than 20 minutes.

We are staying at the Attalos Hotel just 5 minutes walk from Monastiraki metro station. Thanks to Matt Barrett - Matt Barrett Travel Guides for the recommendation!

http://www.hotelsofgreece.com/athens/attalos/

We arrive at Monastiraki in the early evening and the area is buzzing with activity.  The first thing we come across by the flea market is what looks like a beauty contest with the contestants all lined up and a predominantly male audience eager to get a better view! Unfortunately my camera wasn't handy to capture this scene!

After getting our bearings we head towards Athinas Street and within 5 minutes we are at the hotel.  The Attalos is so well located. According to their website - http://www.attaloshotel.com/location.php

Hotel Attalos is located in the center of the Athens, at Athinas Street. Athinas, a lively street, is at the heart of the city extending from Omonia Square to Monastiraki and captures the sights, sounds and local colour of downtown Athens. The Attalos hotel is conveniently situated for easy access to Athensʼ most important historical monuments, shopping districts, as well as restaurants and bars, giving you the chance to enjoy Athens famous nightlife.
  • The hotel is less than 10 minutes walk to Syntagma Square (Parliament, National Garden).
  • 5 minutes walk to Ermou street, shopping area.
  • One hundred meters from Flee market and Metro station directly to the airport and also underground station going to the port of Pireaus or anywhere else.
  • 15 minutes walk to the top of Acropolis.
  • 5 minutes walk to the Plaka.
  • 3 minutes to Psiri Square
  • 15 minutes walk to the National Museum
  • 15 minutes walk to the New Acropolis Museum

    • Perfect!

    What's even more perfect is the view from the roof terrace which is what really sold this hotel to us!  After checking in and throwing our bags in the room we make our way up to the roof terrace for cocktails!

    The local pigeons like to put on a bit  of a show too!

    Several cocktails later we decide to make a move and go to Plaka to eat.  Plaka has been desribed as a traditional village in the middle of the city.  It's pretty winding streets give much appreciated shade on the walk up to the Acropolis.

    I've made a conscious decision not to take the camera with me this evening.  Sometimes the camera becomes everything and it's nice to go out without it every now and again.

    We find a nice taverna to eat in.  After the meal we walk up to Mars Hill (Areopagus) to take in the sight over Athens by night.  This is a very popular place to gather on summer evenings and offers a spectacular view over the city.  I get a little touch of vertigo so we don't stay too long.

    We don't stay out too late as plan to get up at the crack of dawn to be at the Acropolis before the queues!

     

     

     

     

     

    Monday 1st July 2013 - We Arrive at Pollonia and Find a Little Bit of Egypt

    We catch an early bus to Pollonia, eager to find a room for a couple of nights so that we can spend a bit of time relaxing before going to Athens.  I'm not overly concerned that we haven't been able to find rooms via the agents at the port - I will sleep on the beach in Pollonia if necessary!

    We had seen a travel agency from the taverna where we ate the other day. We try here first but they hummed and haahed and then said they only knew of rooms two kilometres from here.  I had noticed another travel agency as we arrived on the bus called Travel Me To Milos where the young lady there was more than helpful.  We told her our budget of thirty euros a night and she made several phone calls until she found somewhere suitable.  She told us there was a place called Pergola about 5 minutes away. 

    http://www.travelmetomilos.com/ 

    She tells us that the owners of the rooms have a cafe and shop next door and they are expecting us.  We walk up a narrow street leading away from the beach until we find Pergola.  A young man comes out of the shop to greet  us - within seconds there is an instant recognition between the man and Peter as fellow Egyptians - like long lost brothers!

    The man is called Sami and he tells Peter that he has been living on Milos for a few years.  He works for the family who own the rooms, cafe and shop and he lives as one of their family - by that I read that he works every hour God sends.

    Sami shows us a couple of rooms to choose from and they are all very nice, each with a blue pergola covered in fuschia pink bougainvillea.  We choose one that has a view of a field to the left and to the front, a tiny chink of the view of the sea.  Even if we had not met Sami at this point, there are clues in the room that an Egyptian works here with the typical towel art you'd find in many hotels or cruise boats in Egypt.  The room is really lovely, bright and modern with a small balcony.

    http://www.milos-pergola.gr/index%20en.html

    One of the main reasons we're here in Pollonia is for the lovely little beach - so we head down there as soon as we can.  Just beautiful!

    What a lovely peaceful day it is, just a few families on the beach - so tranquil.

    By mid afternoon we are hungry.  We decide to try another restaurant on the beach and choose Αρμενάκι (which I think translates to Armenaki).  The meal is absolutely delicious - I have pork stuffed with apricots and prunes and Peter has octopus cooked in sweet wine and honey.  This is first class food!  The wine is so cheap - half litre jug of white wine is the same price as a glass - it would be silly not to!  

    Back to the room to shower and change.  We sit on the balcony and admire the view.

    The sun begins to set on Pollonia.  The fishing boats are moored up by the harbour, fishermen prepare their nets for the following morning. Now this is what I missed in Adamas - the sunset!

    We end the evening in a small cafe bar called Rifaki right on the beach. Frappe with ice cream and Chocolatini with Baileys!



    Sunday 30th June 2013 - The Stunning Lunar Landscape of Sarakiniko, Milos

    We had only booked three nights at Giannis.  The room was already been allocated to someone else for tomorrow - we can move to a side room without a kitchen but I think this is the excuse we are looking for to move on from Adamas.  We had planned to go on to Serifos or Sifnos but I think both Peter and I could do with a couple of days where we don't have to get on a bus and we can just stroll to the beach and swim, or walk to a taverna to eat.  Pollonia we're on our way!

    As I mentioned before, the big benefit of being based in Adamas is that you can reach the key parts of the island easily by bus.  This is particularly useful today as we are going to visit the lunar like landscape of Sarakiniko!

     The bus only goes to Sarakiniko twice a day - 11.00am and 13.00pm.  It's still too early for the 11.00am bus so we decide to explore the streets around and above Adamas.

    The bus journey gives us some more fantastic views of the island.

    As soon as you arrive at Sarakiniko you are struck by the unusual landscape.  The contrast between the white chalk rocks and the deep azure blue of the sea is stunning.  The small bay below is very picturesque but already quite busy.  Over to the right you find the typical picture postcard views of Sarakiniko with the unusual chalk formations.  If you want to take a photograph of the view with only you or your companion in it, or equally without anyone in it, great patience is required!

    A little further around the coast there is another well photographed landmark - a shipwreck which is said to have come aground during a terrible storm.

    This Youtube video by Jasonsensations1 shows amazing views of the shipwreck from underwater.



    Thyme sprouts from the chalk rocks in huge clumps, littered with tiny brightly coloured butterflies.  The scene of the small beach below us reminds me of a postcard from the 1960's.  The beach is untouched and natural but the colours are incredibly polarised - it almost looks photoshopped and as though the colours have been over saturated.

    After we clamber down to the beach I find some shade at the side of a cliff.  The bus back to Adamas is also only twice a day - 13.10 and 17.10.  There isn't a taverna here and we haven't had breakfast so decide to get the 13.10 so we can have some lunch.  There isn't enough time for me to have a swim and dry off but Peter decides to go for a quick dip and then to explore the natural caves in the cliffs.  I take in the surroundings and do a bit of people watching.  A cat comes to join me in the shade.

    Back in Adamas I'm dying to throw my body into the sea. Milos has fantastic beaches all around its coastline so you can guarantee that you'll never be far from one.  The beach just to the west of Adamas isn't one of the most beautiful but it is completely satisfactory and close to a couple of beach front tavernas. 


    We stop at a taverna called Arodo overlooking the harbour.  We order Greek salad, horta and garlic sauce to start along with a jug of white wine.  Unfortunately the white wine is a little 'rough' and not very nice.  Just as we get halfway through the jug the owner brings us another one "on the house" telling us that it is very good wine.  This is very kind of him (or maybe not!).  

    I definitely can't drink any more of it besides, I can see a ferry docking at the port and I want to go and see if there are any rooms in Pollonia.  I leave Peter for 15 minutes whilst I go to speak to the people outside the tourist office with rooms to rent.  Unfortunately none of them have rooms for Pollonia.  A lady with rooms for Plaka tells me to go into the tourist office and ask the lady for the phone number for Maria from Pollonia.  I do this and get the phone number but I think we will just need to go over there tomorrow and see what's on offer.

    By the time I get back to Arodo Peter has finished the second jug of wine!  I didn't expect him to drink it but a typical Egyptian - he hates waste!  After paying the bill we take a short walk to the stretch of beach beyond the row of tavernas.  We find a spot just by the shoreline under a pair of tamarisk trees.  Their tangled white roots reach out to the sea, seemingly in a desperate attempt for survival.  Here Peter falls unconscious and I lay in the shade with my book listening to the waves trickling in and out.  We stay there until the sun begins to set.



    Saturday 29th June 2013 - Exploring Milos - Catacombs, Venus de Milo and Pollonia

    When we arrived at the port of Adamas on the Seajet last night, there was plenty of choice regarding rooms - there were at least a dozen or so people were waiting with photographs of rooms for rent on the island.  Peter and I still hadn't decided where to stay but we had thought that it would either be Adamas itself because of the good bus service or the old town of Plaka up above and north of the port.  I'd had a look on Trip Advisor earlier and there had been very good reviews for a place called Giannis.  As soon as I saw Giannis himself the decision was made!  Similar prices to Folegandros, 30 euros for a room and 35 euros for a room with a kitchen - we went for the latter.  The room was very spacious with 3 single beds, a table and chairs, a dressing table and a small separate kitchen.  The balcony overlooked Giannis garden which was full of basil and marigolds.

    We start the morning with breakfast in a cafe overlooking the harbour.  The port of Milos reminds me of the port of Kos - a little nondescript. There's nothing particularly endearing about it until you start venturing up into the streets above the old town towards the large church.  Because Milos has been relatively late in developing as a tourist destination, the waterfront bars are modern and lack personality. I don't know what I'd expected of Milos but whatever it was, I felt as though I'd been hurled back into reality after our stay on Folegandros.  This is  a much bigger island - just compare the population of 5000 to the 700 on Folegandros!

    The bus stop is only a few minutes walk from Giannis so is certainly handy for getting around this large island. Today we are going to visit the catacombs so we first have to catch the bus to Tripiti.  We have plenty of time before the bus leaves so we start the day with breakfast in one of the cafe's overlooking the harbour.  Although these port front cafe's lack personality, the staff don't and the service we receive is very friendly indeed.

    We walk back to the bus stop and board the bus - there is still 5 minutes before it leaves.  An elderly Greek gentleman with a cheery smile, takes a seat adjacent to us.  He gives us each a sweet and then asks us in broken English where we are from.  After a short conversation he turns to a group of Italians at the back of the bus and in Italian he asks them the same (I can piece the bits of Italian I know together enough to make this out).

    The driver boards the bus and sets off out of the town which is scheduled to stop at Plaka before we need to disembark for Tripiti.

    As the bus begins to climb up the side of the island, I notice the bright white chalk in the hillside with large holes that have been worn away by wind and time.  Milos, a volcanic island has an unusual geology in the fact that it has good resources of chalk, obsidian, bentonite, sulpher and flint.  I had read that Milos is the only Greek island where flint has been found naturally and that records of flint found across Greece has demonstrated how extensive sea travel was even in ancient times.  It is because of the mining industry on Milos that it has well developed roads and although the mines scattered around the island don't look particularly attractive, it is still a thriving industry and a major part of the economy today.

    The bus stops at Plaka and Peter asks the old man how far it was to Tripiti to which he replies "Ten minutes is too much".  Ah - less than 10 minutes!

    We disembark from the bus at Tripiti on a street lined with residential properties and tavernas.  Our guide book tells us that we need to walk to the T junction and from here take a right down the sloping road to the ancient Christian catacombs.  It also tells us that if we want to see the spot where the Venus de Milo statue was discovered and also the Roman amphitheatre, we will find a path forking off to the right.  We decide to do this first.

    It was a little confusing at first, but we did find the site where the Venus de Milo statue was discovered.  It is a rather forlorn place marked only by a road sign and just off the road, there is a plaque under a cluster of trees next to where the statue was exhumed.

    Very close to the Venus de Milo discovery spot is the Roman Amphitheatre which looks as though it is undergoing some remedial works.

    The view from up here is stunning.  I can see windmills atop terraced hills and in the distance a white church sits on a large mound overlooking the bay.  If I've read the guidebook correctly I think this is where the kastro can be found. 

    The land that we can see across the water is Milos where it curves around on itself.  Imagine if you will the shape of a horseshoe.  Tripiti sits on the inside edge of one tip of the horseshoe and is looking at the tip on the other side of the horseshoe.  Deep in the middle, on the inner edge is the port of Adamas.  I remember as we approached Milos the day before, the catamaran slowed down considerably to navigate around the rocks sprouting out of the sea - one looked like a huge sharks fin.  Because we were following the GPS position of the boat we could see it had yet to enter into the deep bay - everybody else had leapt to their feet, grabbed their luggage and positioned themselves in front of the doors.  We enjoyed the remaining fifteen minutes sitting from the comfort of our seats!

    It is also extremely hot today and the breeze sporadic.  We continue down the hill to the catacombs - I try to catch bits of shade cast by trees along the roadside but they are few and far between.  At last we're here.  We walk down paved steps to a small kiosk where we purchase our tickets. A guide takes us and two other couples down a few stone steps into the catacombs.  According to the catacombs website these are thought to be the most important early christian catacombs in Greece.


    It was incredibly humid inside the catacombs.  When we emerged into the albeit light breeze, it was like taking a cold shower after a sauna!

    I had really wanted to continue the walk down to Klima to see the brightly coloured fisherman's houses along the sea front.  Although I think I could have walked down, I just couldn't imagine how I would have been able to walk back up this steep hill in the searing heat.  Well - I believe you should always leave something to visit in case you return to the island another time!

    I really should stop winging about the heat but the climb back up to Tripiti village is a killer.  However, once back up on the main road the narrow winding streets offer some fantastic and much appreciated shade.

    We see a sign for a bus station and follow the road around until we find a bench with a shelter sitting in a small lay-by.  I have a desperate urge to go to the sea so we check the timetable to see what time the bus leaves for Pollonia.  We have about two hours before the bus leaves so we find a little taverna where we can re-hydrate ourselves and, although I have no appetite we decide to have a little something to eat too.  We find a quaint little place on the main street that overlooks a small garden.  We order Greek salad which comes with a huge loaf of bread that we are unable to finish.

    After killing some time we walk back to the bus stop and the bus arrives shortly after.  The bus heads back into Adamas before heading out of the town along a different road to the one we came in on.  As we head back down towards the coast again I can see signs of the amazing geology of the islands, caves carved into chalk rocks.  Little did I know that this was nothing compared to what I was to see the following day!

    The bus arrives at the little fishing village of Pollonia.  As soon as I stepped off the bus I felt like Milos had just redeemed itself.  I realised then that we were just staying in the wrong place.  

    Just beyond the bus stop is a small row of tavernas skirting the edge of the beach and along the shoreline.  Tamarisk trees provide natural shade and the beach is narrow and sandy - perfect!  Instead of settling down here though we walk past the row of tavernas towards a whitewashed church.  Past the church is another small bay where the water is shallow and crystal clear. (as if it would ever be anything but crystal like!)  Every so often we see a small car ferry shuttle between Milos and Kimolos.  This is definitely where I want to be and I now really want to go to Kimolos.

    We spend a couple of hours here reading, swimming and sunbathing before choosing a taverna called Araxovoli to eat.  Peter has fish and garlic sauce and I have meatballs.

    We stay in Pollonia until it is time for the last bus to return to Adamas.  When we arrive back at the port the Agios Giorgios ferry is in and a little while later the Seajet 2 arrives - we stay to watch people board and disembark and imagine the respective emotions of sadness and excitement but never boredom!





    Thursday 27th June 2013 - Up to Panagia Church and Down to Katergo Beach, Folegandros

    The alarm clock wakes us up at 6.00am.  This morning we're going to walk up to Panagia Church that sits one kilometre up on the ridge above the chora.  We think that we may go to Ano Meria after breakfast at Molidiri.  First we are going to build up our appetite!

    If you turn right out of Evgenia Rooms and walk towards the town hall you will see a small road that leads up behind Evgenia and past attractive looking houses, a few small hotels and little whitewashed church.  

    Within minutes you will find yourself on the path that snakes up to the Panagia Church. We imagine we are going to be the only people up there at this time in the morning but walking along one of the upper walls is an elderly man emptying buckets of grain for a donkey and a small herd of goats.

    It is quite a strenuous walk (I'm so unfit) but it's made a little easier as the mountain is still in the shade - the sun is only beginning to rise over the mountain behind us and there is a delicious cool breeze.

    It is so tranquil up here and the view looking down on the chora is amazing. Over the coastline neighbouring islands surrounded by the early morning haze seem to levitate above the sea.  As the sun begins to cast its glow over the mountain on the other side of the chora, the ridges of the terraces appear more defined.  From here we have a really good view of the Venetian kastro, built in 1210 and now which seems to overhang the cliffs rather precariously.  This is a scene from ancient history that remains untouched.  

    We reach the final stretch of the path and walk through a small gate into the grounds of the church.  Panagia is built on the grounds of an ancient temple - in fact you can see the remnants of marble columns in and around the church.  According to Greeka.com:

    ["This church is dedicated to the Assumption of Virgin Mary and was possible constructed on the ruins of an ancient temple. In fact, marble parts of this temple were used as building material for the church and visitors can see ancient inscriptions and bases of statues in the interior and the courtyard of the church. The exact year of the construction of the church is not known. However, a marble sign says that it was renovated in 1687 and it took its present form in 1821.

    The architecture of the church is traditional Cycladic and the exterior is whitewashed. This is a one-aisle basilica with many domes and a tall bell-tower. The interior has fine frescoes, a marble throne for the archbishop and a marble icon screen. In the past, the church was the katholikon of a female monastery.

    The silver icon of Virgin Mary inside the church is believed the be miracle-working. The legend says that in 1790, 18 boats of Algerian pirates were about to get ashore. The desperate residents of Folegandros went to the church to pray for their lives to Virgin Mary, when a strong northern wind blew and sank all the boats of the pirates, of whom all got drown. Since then, the locals consider Virgin Mary the protector of their island."]

    The sun begins to peel back the shadows from the landscape below.  The breeze has dropped and the temperature is beginning to rise.  It's time to head back down to the chora, this time admiring the views from a different perspective.

    It took about half an hour to walk up to the church and about 20 minutes to walk down - this includes time to stop and admire the views, catch my breath and to try and temper my vertigo. I notice afterwards that some of my photographs are a bit wonky - I shall blame that on vertigo!

    When we reach the chora it is almost deserted, but no better time to explore the picturesque streets again.

      After wandering around the streets and alleyways, we walk over to Molidiri for breakfast.  We receive a lovely warm welcome from Eleftheria and she tells us that her boyfriend is baking pies and recommends that we wait to have the pies as they are their speciality. In the meantime we have a cup of tea and chat to Eleftheria.

    Eleftheria tells us that they both used to work in Oiea on Santorini - he was the manager of a restaurant and she was a waitress.  They used to work very hard for very little reward so they decided to make the move and open up their own place on Folegandros.  Because they are what the locals on Folegandros call 'strangers' to the islands (she laughs and says "we are all Greek!") they have had to work 10 times harder to be accepted by the community.  They also wanted to have the best quality of everything so they source the best ice cream they could find (Kayak) which is made from real milk and not milk powder like other ice creams.  Eleftheria tells us that they have some new flavours in and she dashes into the cafe to brings use some sample sized ice cream to try.  The pistachio is fantastic!

    Eleftheria tells us that she is from Piraeus and her boyfriend is from Thessaloniki.  She says that people imagine that Piraeus is a big city because they just think of the port however, the place where she was born is like a small village.

    We told her about our trip up to Panagia church.  She says that she had never been up to the big church but if her boyfriend asked her to marry him then she would run all the way up to it! I hope your wish comes true Eleftheria!

    Eleftheria tells us that the salamander has been incorporated into their logo for the business because it is good luck. She also tells us the story of how the Aegean Sea got it's name.  We like a bit of Greek mythology so we listen intently as gives a very animated and entertaining version of the story.  Here is a version from Google:

    ["According to Greek Mythology, the Aegean Sea owes its name to the King of Athens, Aigeas (Aegeas). 

    The story goes this way....... King Minos of Crete in order to punish the Athenians who had killed his son Androgeo, declared war on Athens and won. The Athenians subsequently became subjects of the Minoan Empire. King Minos then demanded that a tribute of honour be paid. At nine year intervals, seven Athenian boys and seven Athenian girls were to be sacrificed. They were to be sent to Crete and devoured by the mythical Minotaur, a monster with the body of a man and the head of a bull, who lived in the Labyrinth.

    Thiseas, the son of Aigeas and Aithra, decided that he would slaughter the Minotaur and end the shameful bloody sacrifices. He took the place of one of the seven young men and set sail for Crete. Before he left, it was agreed with his father Aigeas that they would hoist black sails as a 'show' of mourning, but that if they were successful and slayed the monster, they would hoist white sails on the journey home.

    On his journey he met and fell in love with Ariadne, daughter of King Minoas. She gave him a ball of string, 'Ariadne's Clue'. The idea was to unravel the string in the Labyrinth, so that after Thiseas slayed the Minotaur, he would find his way back to the entrance. The mission was successful and the Minotaur was killed. 

    Under the cloak of night, Thiseas, Ariadne and the others escaped to the port and embarked on the ship for the return journey. On the way they stopped at the island of Naxos. Story tells us that Thiseas abandoned Ariadne while she was sleeping and continued on his journey home, but forgot to raise the white sails as he had promised to Aigeas (some say that Ariadne laid a curse on Thiseas). 

    Aigias waited for his son to return. As he stood on the Akrotiri of Sounio, he spied the ship as it rounded the cape - it had black sails. Believing that his son was dead, the king despaired. He jumped off the cliffs into the sea from the temple of Poseidon and killed himself."]

    By now the freshly baked pies are ready.  I've ordered a cream pie and Peter has ordered a cheese and tomato pie made with local cheese.  Nothing can beat this straight from the oven.  Ten out of 10 for Molidiri's pies!

    Eleftheria, it's been a pleasure meeting you and we wish you and your partner the very best of luck for your new business, Molidiri!

    This is our last full day on the island.  We had planned to go to Ano Meria but had just missed a bus so we decide to catch the next bus down to the port (Karavostasis) and then decide what to do from there.

    Once at the port we take a look at the port beach (called Port Beach).  There are a couple of taverna's in the port and also one or two on the beach itself.  Although a small beach and not particularly busy, it is quite stony and we can't find anyway that would be comfortable enough to sit for any length of time. 

    There are a couple of tourist boats in the port so we go to see if there are any trips to other beaches.  The 5 beach trip only runs on a Monday, Wednesday andn Saturday however, we do see that there are daily boat trips to Katergo Beach, supposedly one of the best beaches on Folegandros due to its crystal clear, emerald waters.  

    We are told by the captain that the beach is quite isolated and there is nowhere to buy water so we nip to the supermarket to get a few supplies.

    We set off from the port, out past rocky outcrops until we make a short stop at a little cave.  The boats pushes it's nose into the cave and after a minute or two reverses out and resumes the journey to Katergo.

    Soon after, we arrive at a small bay.  Katergo is a long strip of rocky beach - it can be reached by a bit of a trek from Agali (the opposite direction to the one we took yesterday).  The boat seems by far the best way to get here as we see later on when a we are startled by rocks bouncing past our heads caused by a couple who have been adventurous enough to go via the coastal path - just a minor avalanche!  They do apologise to us - I just hope their journey back is less precarious!

    The beach is barren and rocky - very beautiful and has very little shade or shelter.  The midday sun is already upon us so we attempt to construct a makeshift shelter from a sarong and a Tshirt draped over a rock and anchored by big stones.

    The beach itself shelves steeply as seems to be the nature of the beaches on this island but it certainly lives up to it's reputation - the sea is absolutely crystal clear! 

    The heat is now too much to bare, even Peter is struggling a bit.  Further down the beach we see so many people lying out in the sun with no shade absolutely frying their skin (and for the nudists even more!) - I just don't know how they do it!

    We decide to catch the boat that returns at 14.15 rather than stay the whole day.  The boat we arrived on has remained anchored 
    a short distance from the beach all this time.  Another boat arrived sometime later and we return on the boat we came on.  I'm assuming this is for health and safety purposes in case someone is taken ill and needed to get back to the port quickly.  Back in the day I remember being dropped off on remote beaches and the boats usually didn't stay - only returning for the pick up.

    Back at Karavostasis we have lunch in one of the tavernas overlooking the small harbour.  Peter has fish and I have sausage accompanied by Greek salad, tzatziki and of course - retsina.  I think the retsina was a mistake as the sun has really made me feel a little lacklustre. It is ages before the next bus comes and we find ourselves changing tables twice to keep in the shade.

    When we arrive back at Evgenia, I collapse on the bed feeling dehydrated and weary.  As much as I love the sun I'm not very good in strong heat.  Anyway, I soon get my second wind after a little nap.  We wander around the chora and then go to the viewing point looking over the terraces.  For the last time we watch the sun set on Folegandros.

    If you visit Folegandros I promise you, you will never tire of walking around the chora.  It really is picture perfect and I've found the local people some of the friendliest I have come across.  Neither Peter or I are hungry but we do find a quiet little taverna where we sit and drink tea before returning back to Evgenia to pack.


    Wednesday 26th June 2013 - Folegandros - a day on Galifos Beach

    Our first mission of the day is to discover one of Folegandros's beaches.  We've decided to get the bus to Agali and from there decide which beach to visit.

    We remember that today the bus stop has moved to down the hill instead of up the hill - still only 2 minutes walk from Evgenia.  The bus arrives and after boarding it makes its way onto the road along the back of the chora which leads onto the road to Ano Meria.  After a few minutes turns left onto the road down the western side of the island.  

    The road to Ano Meria runs like a narrow spine  from the chora.  If you were to stand in the middle of this road you could take a few paces either left or right and you would be able to see all the way down to the bay on the west or the east side of the island. 

    You can see in the photograph below taken from Ano Meria how the chora and the road is located on a narrow sloping ridge with Panagia church about a third of the way down from the peak..

    The descent is steep and and the driver stays in first gear with this foot on the brake all the way down!

    Again I'm struck by the purple shrubbery that manages to thrive so abundantly in such rocky terrain.  It is a short journey to Agali which is an attractive beach but we are keen to explore a bit further around the coast.  We walk in a clockwise direction up the steep coastal path to the right past a couple of tavernas.  Some parts of the path are a little precarious but offers some great views over the bay.

    As the coastal path descends we walk past a couple of stone single story buildings advertised as summer houses, no electricity, light powered by gas.  The last few steps down onto the beach manufactured stone steps which take as straight onto a tiny beach called Galifos.  There is only one other couple who settle on this beach, others  remain at Agali or continue up the coastal path around to Agios Nikolaus.  Galifos is a mainly stoney beach with small patches of sand.  The beach shelves deeply and quickly on the shoreline.  The low, shingle cliffs curve out into the sea in a horseshoe shape acting as a natural sea break.  We stand and watch the waves crash violently across the rocks.

    We like the small intimate nature of this beach so decide to stay here.  There is one small tamerisk tree offering shade underneath a small raised bed of rocks.  Although not particularly comfortable with only a beach towel for padding, the benefit of the shade far outweighs the cons of a lumpy place to sit.  The stone summer house adjacent to the bottom of the stone steps advertises postcards for sale and these are displayed on a piece of string attached by wooden pegs.  Also for sale are hand printed tshirts which are not displayed outside - not is there any sign that there is anyone manning this little shop - not until much later on in the day when a young woman emerges with a plastic bowl full of wet washing which she then hangs on a line strung between two tamarisk trees.  Is this the life?  I think it's definitely a life I could live - for a summer anyway!


    We lay in the shade on this relatively deserted little beach.  Although the sea appears very calm, the tide is powerful.  The waves roll gently onto the shoreline but as it exhales you can hear the rocks being ripped from the bed back out into the sea.  Later on in the day when we decide to go for a dip we feel the strength of the tide first hand.  The first challenge is to manage to walk over the large pebbles on the beach.  I have rubber beach shoes which makes it a bit easier - Peter has concrete feet which enables him to walk on sorts of terrain. Even in the shallow waters it is very difficult to remain upright and within one minute the strength of the tide has pulled my feet from underneath me. 

    I am now at the mercy of the tide which pushes me up to the shore on the in-breath and then drags me back out on my bottom on the out-breath - this is over a distance of about 2 meters.  My bottom takes a real beating as it is dragged over the bed of large cobbles!  Just as I try to stand, the sea grabs me and pulls me down again.  What an unseemly spectacle this must be - not particularly elegant at all!  Peter has to rescue me before my backside is pounded further - anyway - thank heavens there's plenty of padding in my derriere!  

    Later in the afternoon Peter decides to go for a walk to Agios Nikolaus, the next beach along.  When he returns he tells me that it is a bigger and sandier beach - it probably has much more comfortable places to sit but there are more people there - but by no means are we talking busy like some beaches you may find on more touristy islands.  It also has a little taverna.

    The other couple that were on the beach earlier have left and another group of three people arrive.  Up until now there had been no indication that Galifos was a designated nudist beach but it seems it is has been adopted as one.  I looked up from my book and saw the group of three, running naked into the sea.  Now they have my utmost admiration for two things.  One for having the ability to run over the huge stones without doing damage to their feet - and remaining upright under the onslaught of the tide.  Secondly for having no inhibitions about stripping off and baring all.  I could just imagine the exhilaration of running naked into this choppy sea - maybe a few years ago I'd have done it myself.  I can only think of two reasons why I wouldn't do it - I don't have the sylph-like figure I used to have and the other is that although Peter is not as typically conservative as many men from north African and middle eastern countries, I know he wouldn't do it so I probably wouldn't want to do it on my own.  Those aren't very good reasons I know.  I still think I'd like to do it though.

    Anyway, even though I hadn't read anything that said Galifos was a nudist beach, the sheltered nature of the beach, the fact that the undercurrent is strong and not suitable for children should give some indication however, there was even more of a hint that had at first escaped my attention!


    This has been a wonderful day on rugged little Galifos beach.  It's a shame the tide was so strong and we didn't have a chance to have a really good swim but it's been very enjoyable and I really recommend it if you like a quiet beach.  We packed up and walked back over the cliffs.


    We had just missed a bus - in fact one of the naked ladies (now clothed) had run past us on the cliffs and shouted at us "the bus!"  We decided to eat a little something at one of the tavernas at the bottom of the coastal path which overlooks the beach of Agali.  We order Greek salad and tzatziki with half a litre of retsina.  No matter what time of the day, retsina is so easy to drink!  The waitress brings the food and wine on a tray and as she settles it on the table a little of the wine spills from the top of the carafe.  She tells us that spilling wine is good luck but if you were to spill water that means someone will take money from you!


    I must say at this point that I don't appear in many of the photograph for a reason.  Back in Paros Peter inadvertently broke the Panasonic Lumix which is great for taking videos too.  I'm more interested in photography than Peter and don't often let him have hold of my precious DSLR - result being that I'm the one taking the photographs rather than being photographed!

    The bus arrives for the return journey - this time the strain is on the engine rather than the brakes as it heaves its way up the steep incline back onto the main road to the chora.

    The views from the main road over the bay and along the ridge to the chora are spectacular!

    After showering and changing we decide to have the obligatory glass of Pimms and lemonade on the balcony.  I sit on the balcony in the late afternoon sun to dry my hair.  Two minutes later I hear a large smash.  I know exactly what it is.  Smashed bottle on ceramic floor tiles.  When I walk into the room it looks like the crime scene of a bloody murder - Pimms splattered over the floor and the walls.  Now thinking back to what the waitress had told us earlier that spilling wine is good luck and spilling water means someone will take money from you, I'm not sure what the outcome will be for smashing a nearly whole bottle of Pimms.  Let's hope it sits in the same group as wine spilling rather than water spilling!  Goodbye Pimms my old friend.  We're so sorry your journey has ended so prematurely! - we had so many more balconies to share with you!


    It is now early evening and we walk to the travel agency near the kastro to find out what days and times the ferry's go to Milos.  At this stage our plan is to stay on Milos for three days and then travel to either of Sifnos, Serifos or Kythnos for a few days, giving us a few days in Athens at the end of the trip.  It's mainly high speed ferries that operate on the western Cycladic line and they are more expensive than the other ferries.  Usually when travelling to a group of islands I'd make my way to the island furthest away from the return destination point.  This way you are always working your way back in the right direction.  It hasn't happened like that on this trip so we have to ensure that we are able to get back to Athens with at a least a day to spare.  

    We decide to leave Folegandros on Friday on the Seajet 2, the high speed catamaran which leaves at 19.10pm - not sitting on the deck for this journey!  


    The cost of the ticket is 27.5 euros.  Our tentative plan is to then leave Milos on Monday 1st July for Serifos on the 15.30 pm Agios Giorgios - this trip would cost 14 euros (that's a bit more like it!)  and then leave Serifos for Piraeus on another high speed ferry at 18.00pm - cost of ticket 27 euros.

    Neither of us are particularly hungry after our meal at the beach taverna so we try to build up an appetite by strolling around the chora.  I could walk around the pretty squares and narrow alleyways for hours.  Along the back road of the chora we stumble across a little cafe called Molidiri that sells ice cream and we decide that this is a nice place to end the day.  We order ice cream and hot tea.  We try to check Molidiri in on Facebook - it isn't on there yet so I set it up under 'cafe'.

    Molidiri is a charming little place and it isn't long before we strike up conversation with Eleftheria who owns the business with her partner.  She tells us that they have been open for 10 days only.  They are not from Folegandros and so the challenge has not only been to get a business up and running, but to befriend the local community too.  We tell her that we have 'checked in' at Molidiri on Facebook and given it a good rating.  She is interested in this and asks us some questions about Facebook.  We have a chat about social media and how it is an excellent tool for promoting businesses.

    It is getting late now.  We have to be up early tomorrow as we are going to walk up to Panagia church before it gets too hot.  Eleftheria invites us to come for a cup of tea in the morning which we say we will do after visiting the church.

    Here is the bus timetable from chora to Agali - correct as of the 26th June 2013.

    


    Tuesday 25th June 2013 - Farewell Antiparos - Hello Folegandros!

    It is always sad leaving an island as is definitely the case today.  However, this feeling is offset in the knowledge that we are heading off to a brand new island - one that neither Peter or I have visited before.

    When we awake we throw our last few bits into our suitcases.  I decide to shower first but am horrified to see a huge cockroach scuttling around the edge of the shower tray.  I leap back into the bedroom and onto the bed whilst Peter gives chase to the little (huge) blighter.  It runs under the bed, out from under the bed and under the chest of drawers.  It then makes a run for my suitcase and take the opportunity to leap between the open zips and squeeze down the side of my clothes.  Peter flicks it out with a Guide to Antiparos and it runs under the wardrobe.  After levering the wardrobe out from the wall Peter manages to corner it inside a plastic cup and dispose of it outside on the street.

    Just as I was hoping to ease myself into the day gently!

    Despite this little episode, Villa Harmonia was a nice place to stay, basic and clean and quiet and OK for 35 euros per night.

    http://www.villaharmonia.gr/

    The high speed ferry to Folegandros - The Aqua Spirit, is due to leave Paros at 11.50am so we are catching the 9.00am boat straight to Parikia.  I much prefer it when you can get a boat in the morning so the agony of leaving isn't prolonged.  We had the leaving trial run yesterday - now let's get on with it.

    The boat is much busier today as yesterday was the last day of the festival and many of the Greek visitors will be returning to mainland Greece.  

    I'm sure I'll be back to Antiparos for a fourth time - maybe more.  We barely ventured further than the town of Antiparos except to visit the cave - this has been quite a lazy first four days.  I would love to have visited the little island of Despotiko again and also walked to the Northern most point of the island to watch the sunset.  Definitely next time!

    Farewell Antiparos - it's been a blast!

    Before we leave Antiparos, here is a bit of Greek Mythology:

    When we arrive at Parikia we still have a bit of time before the the high speed ferry arrives.  I sit in a cafe opposite the port cattle pens with the luggage whilst Peter goes to explore another church.  

    When he returns we go to queue in cattle pens.  It's due to leave in 15 minutes but the turnaround time on the high speed ferries is much faster than the larger ferries.  It must be running late because the Blue Star Paros arrives - and then leaves.  A sea jet also arrives followed by the Blue Star Delos. 


    The Aqua Spirit has missed its slot on the quay and Peter hears from the back of the queue that passengers for the high speed ferry have to walk over to the quay on the other side of the car park. Absolute confusion ensues.  We just follow the policeman who'd updated the people at the back of the queue.  Within minutes the Aqua Spirit appears in sight.


    Boarding is quick and we decide to go up onto the top deck.  I'm looking forward to this journey and especially to see old friends like Naxos - even if it is from the deck of the ship.  But for now, farewell Paros!


    I couldn't find any substantial information mythology about Paros but here is a little bit that I managed to find on Google.

    There is a fantastic breeze up on the deck, the sky is blue and we can see for miles.  Blue Star Paros passes us on the way to Naxos - just because you're on a 'high speed ferry' doesn't mean you're on the fastest ship!


    The first port of call is Naxos - again this is another island that I haven't visited for nearly 20 years so I'm excited to see it again.  As we approach the island, it's most famous landmark comes into view - the marble Portera standing proud on the little islet of Palatia.  One of the 'must do's' whilst visiting Naxos is to take an early evening stroll across the narrow causeway to the Portera and watch the glorious sunset.


    Perched above Naxos town sits the Venetian kastro.  According to allgreektravel.com:

    "The Venetian Castle (Kastro) was built by Marco Sanudo after the fourth crusade. 

    He was part of the family of Enrico Dandolo, doge of Venice and participator of the crusade. 
    Venice was the conqueror and Maro Sanudo founded, after occupying, the duchy of the Cyclades with its capital in Naxos (1207). 
    The Kastro was built on dense constructions of the Middle Ages. The "Barozzi" House is located at the southwestern gate of the Kastro and is still in property of the family. The Barozzis were one of the 7 families who founded Venice and were barons on Santorini between 1207-1335. One of the houses of "Della Rokka", the old family "Del la Roche", great dukes of Athens and Attica, has a nice shop "Antico Venetico" selling old dishes, furniture and textiles in the backroom, reminding the rule of the dukes. Actually, it is more or less a museum and has 4 columns of classical temples. Della Rokkas still own one of the eldest pharmacies of the Cyclades (end of 19th century) in Naxos town."

    I remember the kastro was so atmospheric at night.  Naxos also has beautiful long sandy beaches - some of the best in the Greek islands. The strongest memory of my stay on Naxos all those years ago is of a trip to Mount Zeus.  The plan was to find the cave where the god Zeus is said to have been born.  We took a bus up to the village of Filoti - even though it was hot and sunny down in the town, it was pouring with rain up in this small mountain village.  Before setting off on a the trek up the mountain I popped into a local cafe to use the facilities.  I had never seen such a revolting toilet in all my life!  Anyway, several other groups had planned to also trek up to the cave.  The Germans went one way, the Italians another. There wasn't any signage and after trekking up the mountain and then traipsing across several fields with only the Guide to Island Hopping for company we realised we were lost.  We stopped a farmer to ask the way to the cave communicating mainly by flailing our arms like idiots.  He beat a hasty retreat.  

    After hours of walking around in circles we decided to call it a day - we never did find the cave.  It was a nice little adventure all the same.

    Passengers have now disembarked or boarded and the ferry is now heading for Ios.  A short time after we are approached by a gentleman who tells us he is from the University of Skavangar and he is conducting a survey on travel in Greece.  He asks us if we will take part in the survey, which we agree to.  I takes five minutes to complete the survey and as I return it to him I tell him that if he ever needs an assistant for future studies around the Greek islands that I would make myself available!  If only!


    It is a glorious day, quite hot but the wind blowing across the deck of the ferry keeps it the temperature down.  Before long we arrive at Ios.  What I read about Ios is that it's a party island and has amazing beaches.  As we pull into the pretty little port it's hard to imagine this reputation.  Two hills sit behind the port - one large and one small.  I count five whitewashed churches perched along the ridge of the smaller hill.  A larger church sits to the right of the port overlooking the bay.


    We have one last stop at Sikinos before arriving at Folegandros.  


    Using the GPS facility on Skitch we track our position and see that we are, at last approaching Folegandros.  I think this is the most exciting part of sea travel.  There is absolutely nothing like the feeling of anticipation as you arrive at a new island.    Standing on the car deck waiting for the back to come down as the new island slowly reveals itself.


    We disembark and waiting on the left hand side of the port is a local bus - everyone seems to head straight for the bus.  We however, approach the small group of people holding photographs of rooms.  We know we want to stay in the chora  as we have heard that it is one of the prettiest in the Greek islands.  We have a budget of about 30 euros per night and a young man says he has just the place for us.  We pile our bags into the small minibus and head up the hill to Evgenia Rooms.

    The hillside is covered with splintered slate from which purple thyme bursts forth.  The shattered green coloured slate looks as though it could slide down the hillside at any time.  I notice deep ditches at the base of the hillside and assume this is to capture stray rocks - or maybe divert rainfall from the mountains to prevent flooding.

    It is a short journey up to the chora - only a few kilometres and we find Evgenia on the main street into the chora.  The young man tells us that the bus stop is 1 minute away next to the town hall, but after today it will be 1 minute in the other direction by the school.  He introduces us to his mother Evgenia and says that we can have a room for 30 euros or a studio for 35.  We opt for just a room.  As well as taking us up to the chora he will also pick us up and take us back to the port - we just need to let Evgenia know what day we are leaving the island.

    The room is lovely, absolutely spotless, quite spacious and an immaculate bathroom.  Some little extras that we really appreciated was a large plastic bowl in the bathroom for washing and a drying stand on the balcony.  We didn't have anywhere to hang washing on Antiparos so had only washed small bits of clothing as we went along.   We stand and admire the gardens surrounding Hotel Polikandia across the road from us.  It has been landscaped with tall palms and potted plants which provide a backdrop to the pool and waterfall.  Fuschia pink Bougainvillea drapes itself over the little whitewashed apartments.


    First things first, we unpack and shower, chucking all of our dirty clothes into the bathroom.  I wash the clothes in the large bowl and Peter rinses and squeezes.  It isn't long before the drying frame is completely full.

    Now it's time to introduce our friend Pimms to the balcony!


    I''m desperate to explore the chora after everything I have read about it.  Just  two minutes walk from Evegnia and next to the town hall is the most wonderful viewing point with fantastic views over the sea to Paros and Naxos.  Set into the cliffside, medieval stockade type houses hang precariously over the bay below.  This is part of the ancient kastro.


    Looming above us, positioned almost directly above Evegnia is the Panagia church.  A whitewashed stone path zigzags its way up the hillside to the foot of the church - about a kilometre in total.  The view from up there must be spectacular so we make a mental note to put this on our itinerary.


    We continue to walk further into the chora, expectations high - and we aren't disappointed.  The chora consists of a series of little squares shaded by mature plane trees, little tavernas each identified by the patterns on their table clothes of the colour of the painted furniture.  My first impression is that it is very 'boutique' - a little contrived but nonetheless very pretty and atmospheric - think Mykonos and Santorini but less busy.  Each square has its own picturesque whitewashed church providing a focal point.  The green slate is set into the street in traditional Cycladic style.  Folegandros chora really is picture perfect!

      
    On one of the church walls we see a poster advertising the Folegandros Chora Races 2013.  We see this takes place tonight.  Runners from all over the world are invited to take part in one of three categories - the Folegandros Extreme Chora Race which starts at the port, goes up to the chora and then around the Angali Bend which is described as hard going with a 10 degree incline in stages, then back to the chora -   12 kilometres in total.  The second category is the 4.2 kilometre Marathon Light and starts at the Angali Bend and winds down the slopes to the chora.  The final category is the Team Competition where groups of three from the same family or community can take part in either of the races and fastest times are combined to determine the winning team.


    We continue walking from square to square and spot a couple of tavernas that take our fancy for dinner tonight.  Just on the other side of the square is another fantastic viewing point that overlooks deeply set terraces.  This view takes you over to Ano Meria, the only other settlement on the island.  From here we can see runners zig zagging down the hillsides - the races have begun!  We spot runners at different points across the way - this must be the Angali Bend.  This is a perfect evening for running.  The sun is beginning to drop and there is a glorious breeze pushing in from the sea.


    We think this is a good spot to watch the sunset and it isn't long before the sun begins to drop behind An0 Meria.  The terraces disappear into the darkness.  The sunset, the silence - the feeling that all is well in the world!

    We walk back into one of the squares and decide to eat in Restaurant Chic.  Peter has goat in lemon sauce and I have lamb with almonds which is followed by apple pie and buscotina all washed down with lots of dry white wine.  During the meal we see small groups of people including families with children that have taken part in the Folegandros Chora Race - still in shorts and vest and wearing medals around their necks gathering around big tables in restaurants across the square to eat.  


    After the meal we walk through the squares and down pretty alleyways where we find beautifully designed art and crafts shops.  We also come across tiny little cafe's that you may mistake for a little house during the day but seem to transform themselves into chic little bars in the evening.

    As we walk back to Evgenia we can just see the top of Panagia Church lit up on the hillside, glowing like a beacon in the dark and in the foreground we can just make out an old windmill.  In front of us we see houses scattered on the hills overlooking the chora, sparkling like white jewels in the night.

     
    Back on the balcony of our room we can see that Hotel Polikandia by night, really comes into its (Disney) own!


    Peter talks about Egypt and the demonstrations that are expected over the next few days in Cairo.  His brother Michael has taken his mum to Cairo for medical treatment - our thoughts are with them.