A Greek Oddity

Posts for Tag: parikia

Tuesday 25th June 2013 - Farewell Antiparos - Hello Folegandros!

It is always sad leaving an island as is definitely the case today.  However, this feeling is offset in the knowledge that we are heading off to a brand new island - one that neither Peter or I have visited before.

When we awake we throw our last few bits into our suitcases.  I decide to shower first but am horrified to see a huge cockroach scuttling around the edge of the shower tray.  I leap back into the bedroom and onto the bed whilst Peter gives chase to the little (huge) blighter.  It runs under the bed, out from under the bed and under the chest of drawers.  It then makes a run for my suitcase and take the opportunity to leap between the open zips and squeeze down the side of my clothes.  Peter flicks it out with a Guide to Antiparos and it runs under the wardrobe.  After levering the wardrobe out from the wall Peter manages to corner it inside a plastic cup and dispose of it outside on the street.

Just as I was hoping to ease myself into the day gently!

Despite this little episode, Villa Harmonia was a nice place to stay, basic and clean and quiet and OK for 35 euros per night.

http://www.villaharmonia.gr/

The high speed ferry to Folegandros - The Aqua Spirit, is due to leave Paros at 11.50am so we are catching the 9.00am boat straight to Parikia.  I much prefer it when you can get a boat in the morning so the agony of leaving isn't prolonged.  We had the leaving trial run yesterday - now let's get on with it.

The boat is much busier today as yesterday was the last day of the festival and many of the Greek visitors will be returning to mainland Greece.  

I'm sure I'll be back to Antiparos for a fourth time - maybe more.  We barely ventured further than the town of Antiparos except to visit the cave - this has been quite a lazy first four days.  I would love to have visited the little island of Despotiko again and also walked to the Northern most point of the island to watch the sunset.  Definitely next time!

Farewell Antiparos - it's been a blast!

Before we leave Antiparos, here is a bit of Greek Mythology:

When we arrive at Parikia we still have a bit of time before the the high speed ferry arrives.  I sit in a cafe opposite the port cattle pens with the luggage whilst Peter goes to explore another church.  

When he returns we go to queue in cattle pens.  It's due to leave in 15 minutes but the turnaround time on the high speed ferries is much faster than the larger ferries.  It must be running late because the Blue Star Paros arrives - and then leaves.  A sea jet also arrives followed by the Blue Star Delos. 


The Aqua Spirit has missed its slot on the quay and Peter hears from the back of the queue that passengers for the high speed ferry have to walk over to the quay on the other side of the car park. Absolute confusion ensues.  We just follow the policeman who'd updated the people at the back of the queue.  Within minutes the Aqua Spirit appears in sight.


Boarding is quick and we decide to go up onto the top deck.  I'm looking forward to this journey and especially to see old friends like Naxos - even if it is from the deck of the ship.  But for now, farewell Paros!


I couldn't find any substantial information mythology about Paros but here is a little bit that I managed to find on Google.

There is a fantastic breeze up on the deck, the sky is blue and we can see for miles.  Blue Star Paros passes us on the way to Naxos - just because you're on a 'high speed ferry' doesn't mean you're on the fastest ship!


The first port of call is Naxos - again this is another island that I haven't visited for nearly 20 years so I'm excited to see it again.  As we approach the island, it's most famous landmark comes into view - the marble Portera standing proud on the little islet of Palatia.  One of the 'must do's' whilst visiting Naxos is to take an early evening stroll across the narrow causeway to the Portera and watch the glorious sunset.


Perched above Naxos town sits the Venetian kastro.  According to allgreektravel.com:

"The Venetian Castle (Kastro) was built by Marco Sanudo after the fourth crusade. 

He was part of the family of Enrico Dandolo, doge of Venice and participator of the crusade. 
Venice was the conqueror and Maro Sanudo founded, after occupying, the duchy of the Cyclades with its capital in Naxos (1207). 
The Kastro was built on dense constructions of the Middle Ages. The "Barozzi" House is located at the southwestern gate of the Kastro and is still in property of the family. The Barozzis were one of the 7 families who founded Venice and were barons on Santorini between 1207-1335. One of the houses of "Della Rokka", the old family "Del la Roche", great dukes of Athens and Attica, has a nice shop "Antico Venetico" selling old dishes, furniture and textiles in the backroom, reminding the rule of the dukes. Actually, it is more or less a museum and has 4 columns of classical temples. Della Rokkas still own one of the eldest pharmacies of the Cyclades (end of 19th century) in Naxos town."

I remember the kastro was so atmospheric at night.  Naxos also has beautiful long sandy beaches - some of the best in the Greek islands. The strongest memory of my stay on Naxos all those years ago is of a trip to Mount Zeus.  The plan was to find the cave where the god Zeus is said to have been born.  We took a bus up to the village of Filoti - even though it was hot and sunny down in the town, it was pouring with rain up in this small mountain village.  Before setting off on a the trek up the mountain I popped into a local cafe to use the facilities.  I had never seen such a revolting toilet in all my life!  Anyway, several other groups had planned to also trek up to the cave.  The Germans went one way, the Italians another. There wasn't any signage and after trekking up the mountain and then traipsing across several fields with only the Guide to Island Hopping for company we realised we were lost.  We stopped a farmer to ask the way to the cave communicating mainly by flailing our arms like idiots.  He beat a hasty retreat.  

After hours of walking around in circles we decided to call it a day - we never did find the cave.  It was a nice little adventure all the same.

Passengers have now disembarked or boarded and the ferry is now heading for Ios.  A short time after we are approached by a gentleman who tells us he is from the University of Skavangar and he is conducting a survey on travel in Greece.  He asks us if we will take part in the survey, which we agree to.  I takes five minutes to complete the survey and as I return it to him I tell him that if he ever needs an assistant for future studies around the Greek islands that I would make myself available!  If only!


It is a glorious day, quite hot but the wind blowing across the deck of the ferry keeps it the temperature down.  Before long we arrive at Ios.  What I read about Ios is that it's a party island and has amazing beaches.  As we pull into the pretty little port it's hard to imagine this reputation.  Two hills sit behind the port - one large and one small.  I count five whitewashed churches perched along the ridge of the smaller hill.  A larger church sits to the right of the port overlooking the bay.


We have one last stop at Sikinos before arriving at Folegandros.  


Using the GPS facility on Skitch we track our position and see that we are, at last approaching Folegandros.  I think this is the most exciting part of sea travel.  There is absolutely nothing like the feeling of anticipation as you arrive at a new island.    Standing on the car deck waiting for the back to come down as the new island slowly reveals itself.


We disembark and waiting on the left hand side of the port is a local bus - everyone seems to head straight for the bus.  We however, approach the small group of people holding photographs of rooms.  We know we want to stay in the chora  as we have heard that it is one of the prettiest in the Greek islands.  We have a budget of about 30 euros per night and a young man says he has just the place for us.  We pile our bags into the small minibus and head up the hill to Evgenia Rooms.

The hillside is covered with splintered slate from which purple thyme bursts forth.  The shattered green coloured slate looks as though it could slide down the hillside at any time.  I notice deep ditches at the base of the hillside and assume this is to capture stray rocks - or maybe divert rainfall from the mountains to prevent flooding.

It is a short journey up to the chora - only a few kilometres and we find Evgenia on the main street into the chora.  The young man tells us that the bus stop is 1 minute away next to the town hall, but after today it will be 1 minute in the other direction by the school.  He introduces us to his mother Evgenia and says that we can have a room for 30 euros or a studio for 35.  We opt for just a room.  As well as taking us up to the chora he will also pick us up and take us back to the port - we just need to let Evgenia know what day we are leaving the island.

The room is lovely, absolutely spotless, quite spacious and an immaculate bathroom.  Some little extras that we really appreciated was a large plastic bowl in the bathroom for washing and a drying stand on the balcony.  We didn't have anywhere to hang washing on Antiparos so had only washed small bits of clothing as we went along.   We stand and admire the gardens surrounding Hotel Polikandia across the road from us.  It has been landscaped with tall palms and potted plants which provide a backdrop to the pool and waterfall.  Fuschia pink Bougainvillea drapes itself over the little whitewashed apartments.


First things first, we unpack and shower, chucking all of our dirty clothes into the bathroom.  I wash the clothes in the large bowl and Peter rinses and squeezes.  It isn't long before the drying frame is completely full.

Now it's time to introduce our friend Pimms to the balcony!


I''m desperate to explore the chora after everything I have read about it.  Just  two minutes walk from Evegnia and next to the town hall is the most wonderful viewing point with fantastic views over the sea to Paros and Naxos.  Set into the cliffside, medieval stockade type houses hang precariously over the bay below.  This is part of the ancient kastro.


Looming above us, positioned almost directly above Evegnia is the Panagia church.  A whitewashed stone path zigzags its way up the hillside to the foot of the church - about a kilometre in total.  The view from up there must be spectacular so we make a mental note to put this on our itinerary.


We continue to walk further into the chora, expectations high - and we aren't disappointed.  The chora consists of a series of little squares shaded by mature plane trees, little tavernas each identified by the patterns on their table clothes of the colour of the painted furniture.  My first impression is that it is very 'boutique' - a little contrived but nonetheless very pretty and atmospheric - think Mykonos and Santorini but less busy.  Each square has its own picturesque whitewashed church providing a focal point.  The green slate is set into the street in traditional Cycladic style.  Folegandros chora really is picture perfect!

  
On one of the church walls we see a poster advertising the Folegandros Chora Races 2013.  We see this takes place tonight.  Runners from all over the world are invited to take part in one of three categories - the Folegandros Extreme Chora Race which starts at the port, goes up to the chora and then around the Angali Bend which is described as hard going with a 10 degree incline in stages, then back to the chora -   12 kilometres in total.  The second category is the 4.2 kilometre Marathon Light and starts at the Angali Bend and winds down the slopes to the chora.  The final category is the Team Competition where groups of three from the same family or community can take part in either of the races and fastest times are combined to determine the winning team.


We continue walking from square to square and spot a couple of tavernas that take our fancy for dinner tonight.  Just on the other side of the square is another fantastic viewing point that overlooks deeply set terraces.  This view takes you over to Ano Meria, the only other settlement on the island.  From here we can see runners zig zagging down the hillsides - the races have begun!  We spot runners at different points across the way - this must be the Angali Bend.  This is a perfect evening for running.  The sun is beginning to drop and there is a glorious breeze pushing in from the sea.


We think this is a good spot to watch the sunset and it isn't long before the sun begins to drop behind An0 Meria.  The terraces disappear into the darkness.  The sunset, the silence - the feeling that all is well in the world!

We walk back into one of the squares and decide to eat in Restaurant Chic.  Peter has goat in lemon sauce and I have lamb with almonds which is followed by apple pie and buscotina all washed down with lots of dry white wine.  During the meal we see small groups of people including families with children that have taken part in the Folegandros Chora Race - still in shorts and vest and wearing medals around their necks gathering around big tables in restaurants across the square to eat.  


After the meal we walk through the squares and down pretty alleyways where we find beautifully designed art and crafts shops.  We also come across tiny little cafe's that you may mistake for a little house during the day but seem to transform themselves into chic little bars in the evening.

As we walk back to Evgenia we can just see the top of Panagia Church lit up on the hillside, glowing like a beacon in the dark and in the foreground we can just make out an old windmill.  In front of us we see houses scattered on the hills overlooking the chora, sparkling like white jewels in the night.

 
Back on the balcony of our room we can see that Hotel Polikandia by night, really comes into its (Disney) own!


Peter talks about Egypt and the demonstrations that are expected over the next few days in Cairo.  His brother Michael has taken his mum to Cairo for medical treatment - our thoughts are with them. 


Monday 24th June 2013 - A day trip to Paros

By the time we went to bed last night we still hadn't decided how to spend our last day on Antiparos, so this morning what do we do?  We decide to go to Paros!  I remember how pretty the little fishing village of Naoussa was so I'm keen to see if it lives up to my memory of it.  

[There are two boats you can take between Paros and Antiparos: 

Parikia - Antiparos.  It takes about 30 minutes.  Parikia (Paroikia) is the main port.  The timetable may change throughout the season so this is only a guide.

Pounda - Antiparos.  This little car ferry shuttles back and forth across the short stretch between the two islands and takes 8 minutes.  However, you will need to take the bus between Parikia-Pounda - a 10-15 minute journey.  Both bus stops are literally a stones throw from the ports.  The advantage of the car ferry is that it runs until late at night - especially handy if you are arriving on a late ferry!!]

 As much as I enjoyed the journey over on the little car ferry (and eternally grateful to it for Friday!) we decide to catch the direct boat.  We take our place on the upper deck and take in the wonderful view of the port.  Over to the left are the port landmarks - the windmill and  and the blue domed church and over to the right the short stretch of whitewashed hotels and tavernas.  This view puts the size of the port, and indeed the island into context.  From the port there is one main street that leads up into the Chora and then further up into the Kastro - all a few minutes walk.

The short trip over to Paros allows us to take in some wonderful views of both islands and also the tiny, privately owned island of Revmatonisi.  A substantial whitewashed villa owned I believe by a shipping magnate, sits hidden behind a barrier of mature palm trees (jealous!).

The narrow straight between the two islands is very shallow and requires precise navigation.  It was an earthquake in around 550 BC that caused a piece of land to separate from Paros and this became the little island of Antiparos.  Signs of this volcanic activity is more evident as you pass the Northern tip of Antiparos where you can see a scattering of little islets spilling out into the sea.  The sea between Antiparos and the uninhabited islands of Kato Fira (Diplo) is so shallow you can wade from one to the other.  Beyond Diplo is Pano Fira and even further lies a rocky outcrop of small islets jutting out from the sea.  Perched on top of one of the larger islets we can see a whitewashed church.  As much as I've tried to Google, I can 't find anything that gives me the name of these islets or the name of the church - there is a reference on Google maps to Agios Spyridon but nothing else.

After 30 minutes, we arrive at Parikia which seems quieter at this time of day than it did in the early hours of the morning.  It is the case that within minutes of a large ferry coming into view, a port will suddenly burst into a hive of activity and then as quick as it came, the calm returns.

As we disembark from the boat (and this is the same on any boat or ferry arriving here) we see the little windmill/tourist office in the middle of the main road and to our right, the port cattle shed/waiting room.  We turn right and about 100 yards down is the small bus station.

[This video shows you where the bus station is in relation to the port.  The video starts just as we leave the port on the boat and just before the video ends you will see a stationery bus - this is the bus station.]

The bus to Naoussa is about to leave.  Peter purchases the tickets from the little office and we hop on board. We pass stretches of agricultural land that spill out from beneath low lying hills.   As the bus winds down towards the village of Naoussa I begin to remember exactly where we are.  The bus terminates adjacent to a row of shops behind which sits the marina.  However, first we are desperately in need of refreshment and stumble into a nearby cafe bar (who's name I unfortunately forget) for a tall glass of fresh lemon juice over crushed ice, garnished with a sprig of mint.

After a short respite from the heat we walk down to the small harbour, home to brightly painted fishing caiques that look resplendent against the whitewashed Venetian houses, many of which are now pretty little tavernas.  The remains of a small kastro and a short harbour wall encompass a number of bobbing fishing boats, a haven from the open sea beyond.  The church of the Assumption of the Virgin sits high on the hill dominating the skyline above the harbour.

The stone harbour wall invited us to walk down its length into the ruin of the partially sunken kastro.  A series of arches built into the thick defensive walls offer us framed vistas in which to appreciate this picture perfect scenery.

Peter climbs through one of the arches and walks out across a chain of rocks and takes a photograph looking back into the kastro.

We walked back along the harbour wall past fishermen preparing for the next day - some sitting on their boats, others sitting with their backs against a wall mending their nets.  Washing is strung across a line on one of the boats. The marina is absolutely teaming with fish.  We stroll amongst the pretty Venetian dwellings that have been reinvented as rather trendy eating establishments amongst which are highly rated seafood restaurants.

Before making our way back to the bus stop we stop to look at Agios Nikolaos in the harbour which also enables me to seek 10 minutes respite from the sun.  This small church is believed to be the protector of all fishing boats - and protector of the fair skinned!

Time is running fast.  This has been just a short whistle stop tour of Naoussa as Peter is keen to visit the monastery in Parikia so we walk slowly back to the bus stop.  A copy of the timetable is by the bus stop and we realise that we will have to wait nearly an hour for the next bus.

[When we arrived back at the bus stop we realised that for the return journey we need to walk about 200 yards towards a small bus station - continue walking in the direction of the bus when it arrives in Naoussa - the bus station is at the end of the street.]

We walk past another impressive looking church  and Peter goes inside whilst I rebind a sore blister with a bandage.


Just before we arrive at the bus station we pass a small place called Restaurant Pervolaria which advertises 'A Taverna in the Garden'.  A large pergola covered in hessian drapes and bougainvillea branches provide much needed shade.  We have decided to eat at T'Ageri back on Antiparos tonight so decide to opt for cheese and spinach pies and a cup of tea just to tide us over.  This is a nice family run taverna - the owners were very friendly and welcoming.  It's a little walk up from the centre of Naoussa and has very clean toilets.  A wonderful place to rest a while when you have time to kill.


The bus soon arrives and we return back the journey back to the port of Parikia.


Before we go to the monastery we decide to walk to the kastro through the winding streets of the chora - this is Cycladic architecture at its best - very typical and very pretty.


The Venitian kastro sits amongst the whitewashed cubist houses - an add looking structure at first glance but the reason becomes clear from our guide book which says:

[The Venetian Kastro (1260 AD) was largely constructed from the remains of the archaic Temples of Demeter and Apollo, remnants of which can  be see in the form of the circular column drums now embedded in the kastro wall.]


A little further around the corner we pass the church Agios Konstantinos - I say Agios Konstantinos - I've tried to research what the name of this church is and trying to match photographs of this church with references to it being next to the kastro brings up three option - St Konstantinos, Holy Mary Septemvriani and St Eleni.  Information on the internet and my guide books are confused so my best guess is that it is St Konstantinos!

Regardless of name, this church is so picturesque, adorned with the famous Parian marble and overlooking the harbour - it's the things that postcards are made of (except if I'm in the picture of course!).


Now it's time to go to the Byzantine monastery that Peter wants to see - Panagia Ekatontapyliani - try saying that when you've had a few ouzo's!  

Also called Katapoliani, it is said to be one of the most important early Christian monuments in Greece and also known as Our Lady of the 100 Doors.  According to www.hotels.line.gr:

["The temple owes its name to its 100 gates, 99 of which are visible and the hundredth will be revealed when the Greeks will recapture Constantinople, as it is said.
The Katapoliani, probably derived from the term "Katapola" meaning "in town", probably indicating the location of the ancient city of Paros. 

Its construction, according to tradition, must be started in the 4th century by St Helena, the mother of Saint Constantine, who made a vow that if she found the Holy Cross, she would build a church at the location of a small temple she had found when she stopped in Paros throughout her journey to find the cross. Then, after she carried out the purpose of her trip, she fulfilled her promise."]

We walk into a large paved courtyard.  To our left is a shaded area with a metal framed pergola and a tree bursting with ripe lemons.  Towering above this is a tall tree with spreading boughs on which hang two church bells.  


The large wooden doors of the church invite us in.  We are almost alone - only another couple and a cleaning lady when we enter.  We all stand in awe, taking in the magnificence of this church, except the cleaning lady who is vigorously polishing each icon. Before moving onto the next icon she kisses the cleansed (and sterilised) icon and crosses herself three times - a well deserved perk of the job!

Peter also visits the icons, showing his respect to God in a much more covert way.  I would describe myself as an Athiest with Agnostic tendencies - I don't really believe in God but at the same time if I was given a conclusive sign that he/she existed might be convinced.  Maybe that's a sign of getting older and the realisation of my own mortality!  When I consider the magnificent world we live in - the sheer miracle of nature - I do become a little more tempted to believe.  I love churches and the absolute feeling of tranquillity and peace that washes over you - a haven from the outside world - saying that, my local garden centre has the same effect on me too!


Within the monastery complex, housed in some of the cells is the Byzantine Museum - we are not allowed to take photographs inside but this web link gives an overview of some of the exhibits.  There is an amazing wooden, carved model of the monastery and also one handmade from wire - very intricate and quite exquisite.


It is now time to make our way back to the harbour for the boat back to Antiparos.  There is so much to see and do on Paros that I feel as though we have only just dipped our toes into what the island has to offer.  I would love to have visited Butterfly Valley - especially as it was the right time of year.  Also the Ancient Salt Mines and maybe have walked the Byzantine Trail.  However, this is one of the few downsides to island hopping - sometimes you only get a snapshot of the island - but then again - it does leave you wanting for more!

When we arrive back at the port the boat Antiparos is coming down the straight.  Tourists who have probably visited Antiparos for the day disembark, then we board.  There are only a handful of us on board for the return journey.  We sail along the shores of Paros until we turn out into the middle of the straight, passing cormorants on rocks jutting out from the sea.


Before we end our day on Paros - just a little bit of Greek Mythology

We arrive back at the port of Antiparos.  As much as my body is crying out to throw itself into the sea to refresh itself, we decide to go straight back to the room to shower and get ready to go out.  Before we go for our last meal on the island at Restaurant T'ageri, we want to visit the kastro which is just a short walk from Villa Harmonia.  

Although this is the beginning of high season, the kastro is virtually deserted.  The early evening sun casts a warm glow over the stone dwellings.  Once newly whitewashed and painted with brightly coloured windows, doors and balconies, wind, sun and age has added to its visual appeal, by adorning it with the patina of  time.   

 We're so hungry after having refrained from eating anything substantial at lunch time - we are more than ready to eat now.  We head straight for T'ageri.  It isn't very busy tonight but this we don't mind.  As soon as I walk in, a lady in a bright pink dress, pink sandals and a pink flower in her hair, points to my camera and tells me that it is going to be a good moon tonight.  After taking our seats at a table overlooking the harbour, the lady asks me questions about my camera and also shows me photographs of the moon that she took the night before.

As we continue to talk she tells us that her daughter works for the diving school next door and that she is staying with her on Antiparos for three months.  The lady also tells us that she is French but lives in Derbyshire.  She bought her husband the camera for his birthday - though I'm not sure how much he has been able to use it yet!

She tells us a lot about hereself - through her fathers job she had travelled extensively around the world as a child.  Her husband works for an airline and they had at one time lived in Nigeria.  In between conversations about photography (at times it turns into a photography lesson) we order our meal.  I don't think Peter wants to spend so much time wrestling with his food tonight and also we are spoilt for choice on the menu.  We decide to order a mixture of things including octopus, zucchini fritters, aubergine salad, local cheese and a Greek salad - there may have been more but we were somewhat distracted - though not unpleasantly so.

 Giorgios comes from the kitchen to ask as how we have enjoyed our meal and explains to us the meaning of the word T'ageri.  "It is like the feeling of the wind on your face" he tells us.  Giorgios brings us out desert which is absolutely amazing.  Choux pastries filled with a banana cream (they were much more than this and my description doesn't do them justice at all) - Giorgios tells us how he makes them and I really admire his passion for good food.   Take a look at their menu and you will see that this is no ordinary Greek Taverna!

http://www.tageri.com/p/menu.html

Maria and the owners, the French lady, Peter and I chat convivially into the evening.  So far there is no sign of this perfect moon - we are waiting in anticipation with our cameras on standby.  I'm sure this time last night the moon was already shining over the harbour.  We wonder if it is hidden by clouds we can't see in the night sky - not the case because we can see the stars.  

"Look!" the French lady shouts, pointing in the direction of Paros.  As we turn, we see the moon beginning to peak out over the top of a low mountain across the sea.  Everyone makes a grab for their cameras.  A crowd has already begun to gather along the harbour wall to witness this magnificent spectacle.  

I had left my travel tripod in Egypt so in the absence of a tripod we take turns in balancing our cameras on top of upturned ice buckets.  Photos are still a little blurry (Note to myself - buy another lightweight tripod before our next trip) - I don't want to mess up another photo opportunity like this again!


This is a great end to our stay on Antiparos.  We give our thanks to Giorgios and Maria and say goodbye to Mr and Mrs Eugenidis and the French lady.  We walk past the marina, the moon illuminating the small boats moored up to the harbour wall.  I think of the meaning of T'ageri and the line written inside the menu:

‘’Take us far away, take us away to distant places, blow open sea, blow sea breeze…!’’

‘’Να μας πάρεις μακριά να μας πας σε πέρα μέρη, φύσα θάλασσα πλατιά, φύσα αγέρι φύσα αγέρι..!’’