Posts for Tag: Serifos

Wednesday 7th May 2014 - Serifos - A Lazy Day on the Beach!

Today it is still very windy and a little bit chilly.  There is another amazing breakfast on offer but we inside the apartment today as the outside furniture is being blown all over the courtyard.  We have ham, cheese, boiled eggs, a loaf of bread with honey and jam, spanokopita and halva - what a feast!

We decide to have a relaxing day on the beach.

We found a sheltered spot on the beach under a tamarisk tree where it felt much warmer.  We are the only people on the beach but are later joined by the beach dog.

Every now and again the wind would whip up giving me an exfoliation treatment that I didn't expect.

This evening we eat at Takis on the sea front. We have garlic sauce to start.  Peter has cuttle fish stew and I have veal in tomato sauce.  Excellent meal!

Tuesday 6th May 2014 - Serifos - Exploring Livadakia and the Chora

We started the day with an amazing breakfast.  Matoula was already downstairs in the small kitchen off the courtyard when we came down at 9.00am.  She brought us a generous spread of boiled eggs, bread with jam and honey, cheese, ham and a semolina type desert with sultanas and sprinkled with cinnamon - I think it was halva. An amazing feast to start the day!  This truly makes up for the smelly bathroom and mosquitoes!

As always I'm always naturally drawn to the water so we go to explore the beach which is short walk from the Serifos Palace past houses with poppy filled gardens.  Livadakia beach is delightful - completely deserted at the moment.  A small curved beach lined with tamarisk trees.  

After a stroll along the beach we head up over the hill towards the port.  We pleased to see a bus service running which means we can see more of the island.  Up above the port, the white houses and churches of the Chora gleam in the sunshine.

I had read that it is about an hours walk to the chora from the port.  It's hard to gauge looking up at it from below but for our first trip up their we decide to catch the bus.  The Chora is divided in two parts which I'll describe as a higher Chora and a lower Chora though on this first trip up there didn't discover the lower Chora.  Up in the higher Chora towards the Kastro is a pretty little square and lots of attractive alleyways.  

In the guides that I had read about Serifos, it described the Chora as one of the prettiest in the Cyclades.  It is attractive for sure, but in a less 'boutique' way than Chora's such as the neighbouring island of Folegandros. 

It is very windy today - the man from the port cafe on Kythnos was right - the wind is definitely picking up!  Vertigo (of maybe it's acrophobia) get's the better of me on most occasions  The wind up in the Chora isn't encouraging me to walk up to the Kastro _ I'm not sure I could have made it anyway with the sheer drops either side.  Peter goes and I walk around the streets surrounding the square.  

We stay for a cup of tea at Kafeneio Tou Stratou in the square with a view of the Town Hall and church.

The walk back down to the port is 2km - the bus is 4.5km.  The path is very good and it's a really enjoyable walk.

Before we go back to the Serifos Palace we take another walk along the beach.  We pass a Alexandros - Vassilia rooms and apartments which also has a little taverna right on the beach.  There isn't anyone in the taverna but we go in and ask if it will be open later.  Vassilia is a lovely welcoming lady and told us it would be open though at this time of year it isn't a full menu.  What they have available is Greek salad, tzaziki, local sausage and pork chops.  Perfect - we'll be back later!

The wind is really picking up.  We take the opportunity to wash clothes and get them out on the line.  I hope it will all be there when we get back.

The meal at Alexandros - Vassilia is great.  The hospitality is wonderful and good basic Greek food can't be beaten especially when washed down with the local wine.

We are joined by a very sad looking local dog.  We had seen her on the beach earlier.  She has a tick on her skin and an infection in her eye - she looks in a bit of a state but she enjoys some leftover pork chop.

The wind has picked up even more this evening.  I wish we'd brought the washing in!

Monday 5th May 2014 - Last Day on Kythnos and on to Serifos

Today we leave for Serifos but the ferry isn't until late afternoon.  Once we pack we go and pay for our stay with Katerina who orders a taxi to pick us up ate 5.00pm.

Photo's of Filoxenia

This is our last opportunity to wander the pretty streets of the Chora. We cut through the Gazoza Cafe Bar from the main street and discover a new alleyway with the most beautiful painted pots.  I don't quite know how we missed this first time around.

More Kythnos Chora Photographs

The route to the outskirts of the village is so pretty and so quiet and we decide to continue walking up to Panagia Tou Nikous.  The views over the Chora are fabulous.  Apart from the sound of birds and the cicada's there is absolute silence.  From this vantage point we could see an elderly man and lady tending their garden and a man passing along the edge of the field on a donkey.  If you love a bit of solitude then this is definitely the best time of year to visit the islands.

The walk back to the Chora gives us the chance to admire a few more details that we missed previously.

We go to Gazoza Cafe Bar on the main street for lunch - a little bit of boutique chic in the heart of the traditional Chora.  Outside are upcycled seats made from pallets covered in brightly coloured cushions.  A little meze  finished off with some local preserved fruits is just perfect.  One of the preserved fruits was lemon - the other we were told was called pergamondo but I wasn't sure what this translated to.  After a bit of a Google I discover that peramondo is the fruit of the bergamot and is a cross between a lemon and a bitter orange.

We have another hour before we need to go down to the port and we spend this sitting on the balcony of our room at Filoxenia.  We watched the light scattered clouds move across the landscape until time to go down.

Katerina is there to see us off in the taxi.  We had a wonderful stay at Filoxenia and it is definitely somewhere we highly recommend for location, high quality accommodation and the most excellent hospitality.

At the port we stop for a cup of tea before the ferry arrives.  The cafe owner tells us that tomorrow a force 7-9 wind will arrive.  He wasn't sure of the time exactly but the big wind will be here tomorrow!

The ferry Adamantios  Korais appears on the horizon and seems to take ages to arrive in port.  It was running 45 minutes late and is the busiest ferry we have seen so far.  Boxes of vegetables are frantically unloaded before we can get on board.
The Adam Korais set sail from the shores of Kythnos.  Farewell Kythnos!
The ferry skirts the coastline of Kythnos down to it's toe  before heading further out to sea.
This was a great people watching opportunity.  There were a group of North African/Middle Eastern young men larking about on the deck - hanging over  the railings testing each others bravado.  A small film crew were filming a grey hair man who appeared to be reading a book and intermittently looking out to sea.  A couple of gypsy children were performing for the tourists - great photo opportunity for many but didn't sit quite well with me photographing children without parental consent.

The sun began to set as we approached Serifos.  Turning towards the harbour we are plunged into dusk as the highest point of Serifos island is placed between us and the sun.

Disembarkation is a little chaotic again but we know that we are going to be picked up by someone the accommodation we had booked.  We had done a little search on Trip Advisor and knew that we wanted to be in the port as opposed to the Chora this time.  We had chosen the Serifos Palace as it was offering a duplex apartment with sea views AND breakfast for a very reasonable price.  20+ years ago the opportunity to preview and book rooms on the fly wasn't even a thought.  You'd turn up on an island and take pot luck with whoever sold their room to you best!

After 10 minutes a little van arrived with Serifos Palace written on it.  A lady greeted us and opened up the back for our luggage which was placed in the back with bags of spilled cement.  The lady didn't speak much English but did mention a restaurant called Gialis along the harbour that seemed to be associated with the Serifos Palace.

The van took us up a steep hill but we were at the Serifos Palace in about 5 minutes.  The apartment was split level and had a small upstairs bedroom with tiny separate shower.  Most of the upstairs space was taken up by various balconies which, had it offered a sea view would have been brilliant.  Standing on tip toes on one balcony you could just about see the sea.  The room upstairs was so small there wasn't a dressing table or space to put the luggage.

Again we are the only people staying in the Serifos Palace which is quite nice.  However as the first visitors of the season the shower room upstairs smelt damp and was infested with mosquitoes.  Our first mission was to get rid of all the mosquitoes and to plug in the bug basher!

Before the lady left she showed us how to switch on the hot water and also asked us what time we'd like breakfast and we agreed 9.00am.  We decide to keep the luggage in the large room downstairs and to also use the downstairs shower which seems to have been refurbished more recently.  The kitchen was basic but functional with a small dining area and again lots of patio space at ground floor level.  We decided to only use the upstairs space to sleep in.  We're exhausted and from the balcony there doesn't appear to be any sign of life in terms of a local taverna or shops so we stay in and drink wine and eat biscuits!